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Route Description: В гребню
Ascent to the summit of Vakhushti via the Eastern ridge, a combined route of 2A category of complexity, duration 35 hours.
82. Vakhushti via East Ridge (combined route, cat. 2A, fig. 5, 18).
From the starting bivouac on the upper plateau of Koruldashi Glacier (point 72) ascend a simple destroyed rocky slope to reach the first pinnacle of Vakhushti's East Ridge and traverse it on the left (belay) 20 m along the snow-rock boundary. Then ascend simple rocks of the East Ridge. Pinnacles:
- traverse the second sharp pinnacle on the right along the ledges;
- traverse the third pinnacle on the right along the ledges. Further, ascend the heavily destroyed, partly snowed simple rocky East Ridge, traverse a 3-meter wall on the left to reach the «saw».
Route Description: Ю ребру
Ascent to the summit of Inguri via the South-West Ridge, a combined route of 4B category of difficulty.
- Inguri via the Southwest Edge (a combined route, V. Sycheva, category 4B difficulty, fig. 5, 18). On the right side of the broken Middle Plateau of the Inguri glacier (m. 89) (closed crevasses, avalanches on the right, icefall collapses) approach the Southwest slopes of the Inguri summit. 120–150 m from the Western ridge of Inguri, turn right and ascend 350–400 m up the broken ice-and-snow slope. Having passed to the right of the base of the Southwest Edge, behind the gendarme turn left and ascend 120–150 m to a scree area on the Southwest Edge. From the Upper Inguri Plateau 4–5 hours. Here, turn right and ascend 120–150 m up simple, heavily destroyed rocks of the Southwest Edge. 40 m up to the left of the corner, ascend a wall of above-average difficulty to a wide ledge. From the ledge, 40 m up steep rocks of average difficulty to an ice-and-snow slope. Then 100–120 m up and to the right along a steep ice-and-snow slope with rock outcrops to the shoulder. From the shoulder, 40–50 m up a wall of above-average difficulty on the left side of the Southwest Edge (key location) to the Southwest Edge. By the wide, snow-covered Southwest Edge, reach a plateau (cairn). From the glacier 6–8 hours. From the plateau, 200–220 m up rocks of average difficulty of the wide South Edge to a 20-meter ascent, which is overcome by a wall of above-average difficulty. Then 100 m along simple and average difficulty snow-covered monolithic rocks of the Southwest Edge to a 15-meter wall, pass it head-on through a cleft. From the wall, 60–80 m up and to the right along a snow-covered inclined ledge, bypass the pre-summit ascent and ascend steep rocks of average difficulty on the left side of a narrow 40–50-meter couloir to the Southwest ridge. Along the simple 60–80-meter ice-and-snow (cornices) Southwest ridge, ascend to the summit of Inguri. From the initial bivouac on the Upper Inguri Plateau 12–14 hours.
Route Description: 3 гребню
Description of the ascent to the Marjanishvili peak via the Western ridge, a combined route of 2B category of complexity.
31. Marjanishvili via Western ridge (combined route, category of difficulty 2B,
fig. 5, 6). At the pass (m. 37) turn right and go along the snowy slope, then
along easy rocks to approach the Big Gendarme of the Western ridge of
Marjanishvili. Steep easy rocks («loose» stones, pitons) provide 30–40 m ascent
to the gendarme (cairn). From the gendarme a 35–40 m sport rappel descent follows
to the saddle of the Western ridge. Further 80–100 m along easy, broken rocks of
the Western ridge lead below a 15–18 m rock-step; overcome it along the slabs
on the right side of the Western ridge. Further, along easy rocks, a 5–6 m
snowy ascent, and talus of the Western ridge lead to the summit of Marjanishvili.
Route Description: В гребню
3B category route to the summit of Nuam-Kuam via the Eastern ridge, including the passage of rocky sections, snowy slopes and gendarmes.
81. Nuam-Kuam via Eastern ridge (combined route, A. Gvalia, cat. 3B diff.,
see fig. 5, 19). From the initial bivouac on Ailaminskaya saddle (point 77)
5060 m ascend via large talus, then 20–30 m via steep snowy ascent
(belay) on the Eastern ridge of Nuam-Kuam peak, between two rock ridges.
Traverse 50–60 m up and left via ice-snow slope to approach the narrow
snow-covered couloir of the Southern buttress of the I gendarme on the
Eastern ridge of Nuam-Kuam peak.
Ascend 80–100 m via moderately difficult, then easy rocks (“live” stones,
pitons) on the right side of the narrow couloir onto the buttress.
Route Description: 3 гребню
Description of the route to the summit of Sаmertskhle Zapadnaya (Western Sаmertskhle) via the Western ridge, difficulty category 3Б, with details of the ascent and descent options.
12. Samertskhle Zapadnaya via Western Ridge (rock climbing route, A. Naumova, category 3B difficulty, fig. 2, 4). On the wide col of the massif between the peaks of Sandro and Samertskhle (big tour, landmark 10) turn right and move along the simple 200–300-meter wide Western Ridge of Samertskhle Zapadnaya, overcoming low gendarmes and ascents head-on. Then 8–10 m along the sharp medium-difficulty (belay) Western Ridge. Further along the ledges and simple rocks on the right side of the Western Ridge. Bypass the "Jvari" gendarme on the right (belay), approach the summit ascent.
From here, traverse right along narrow ledges to reach a rib, from which a 30 m traverse to the right along smooth slabs (pitons) leads to a narrow vertical couloir - chimney.
Up the couloir - chimney ("live" stones) 10 m to a ledge, and from it up a steep smooth 30-meter slab (pitons) to a narrow ledge. Along the intermittent narrow ledge under the overhanging walls, traverse with a slight ascent to the right onto a narrow saddle of the Southern Rib.
On the saddle, turn left and, bypassing the overhanging stones, ascend 40 m up the medium-difficulty wall ("live" stones, pitons). Further along simple rocks, ascend to the summit of Samertskhle Zapadnaya. From the big tour, the exit point to the massif's col, 5–6 hours.
Descent option along the simple rocks of the Eastern Ridge to the saddle. From the saddle, to the right (south) and down along the easy simple destroyed rocks of the couloir (stones).
Further:
- Descent along the snow-ice slope to the grassy slopes
- Along the grassy slopes through the saddle of the Lechumi Ridge
- Return to the base camp
Route Description: траверс
Description of a combined route to the summit of Sandro Glavnaya from Sandro Zapadnaya, difficulty category 3B, traversing the Eastern and Northern ridges.
11. Sandro Zapadnaya — Sandro Glavnaya
(combined route, A. Naumova, category 3B, fig. 2, 4). From Sandro Zapadnaya (m. 8. descend easy broken rocks on the right side of the East ridge. I gendarme is bypassed on the right via simple broken rocks and ledges. Then follow easy rocks of the East ridge to the II gendarme, which is bypassed on the left via ledges. Then traverse via rocks on the left side of the long East ridge, crossing the ice and snow slope, to approach a narrow ice and snow couloir. Cross the couloir (protection), via a partially narrow ledge (piton) exit to an ice and snow couloir descending from the North ridge of Sandro Glavnaya peak. From the ledge ascend 20 m up on the right side of a steep ice and snow couloir (pitons).
Route Description: Ю гребню
Description of the 4A category complexity route to the Chyornyaya Neznakomka summit via the South Ridge, combined terrain, traversing gendarmeries and icy slopes.
- Chyornaia Neznakomka via South Ridge (combined route, L. Akhvlediani, cat. 4A, fig. 5, 9). Before the Moraine Platforms (point 41), turn left into a grassy, scree slope-couloir. From here, go straight up for 700–800 m along a broad scree couloir that sharply narrows at the top. From the couloir, ascend a snow-ice slope, then climb rocks of medium difficulty to reach the South Ridge of Chyornaia Neznakomka peak. Turn right here and follow easy rocks with short ascents along the South Ridge to reach some platforms. Make your base camp on the platforms. The trip from the "Zesho" alpine camp takes 5–7 hours. From the platforms, ascend 60–80 m along easy, broken rocks, then along the snowy South Ridge to a small 1st gendarme; bypass it via snowy scree, and then continue along the easy South Ridge to the 2nd gendarme. Traverse 80–100 m to the right of the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th pointed triangular rock gendarmes along the steep, snowy-icy slope of the Left couloir (loose rocks, pitons), and then ascend a 4–5-meter wall with a cleft to reach the South Ridge. Climb 40 m along rocks of medium difficulty on the South Ridge to a large triangular wall. Below the wall, turn right and then ascend 150–200 m up a snowy-icy couloir under the cover of the wall (loose rocks) to the right rock wall. Climb rocks of medium difficulty (loose rocks, pitons) 30–40 m up the wall to a shoulder. Turn left here and ascend 150–200 m up a broad, snowy-icy couloir (belays) to a saddle on the West Ridge. On the saddle, turn right and follow an easy 100–120-meter, snowy-icy (cornice) West Ridge to the summit of Chyornaia Neznakomka. The trip from the base camp takes 4–5 hours.
Route Description: 3 гребню
Description of the route to Chutharo West summit via the Western ridge, difficulty category 3A, with details on passing rock terrain and key sections.
Fig. 3.
2. Chutkharo Western peak via Western ridge (rocky route, A. Naumova, category III difficulty,
fig. 2, 3). At the grassy col (point 1), turn right and ascend a wide grassy slope, talus,
and easy rocks to the Western ridge of Chutkharo Western peak, to the right of its first
pinnacle. Bypass the pinnacle on the right via easy rocks. Then, proceed along easy
rocks and large talus of the Western ridge to approach the second pinnacle, which is
bypassed on the left via ledges. Traverse the simple, rocky, and rugged Western ridge,
overcoming or bypassing numerous pinnacles, to reach a narrow saddle.
Route Description: С гребню
Ascent to the summit of Shartau via the North ridge, combined route 1B category of complexity, passing through the Eastern col and North ridge.
23. Sharitau via North Ridge (combined route, category 1B difficulty, fig. 5).
From the East saddle of Sharivcek Pass (point 18) descend 100–120 m down to the
right along a gentle glacier (closed crevasses), then traverse 500–700 m to the right
along a snowy slope below the steep East branch of Fytnargin glacier cirque. Further,
ascend 250–300 m up a wide snowy gully — a couloir of the glacier between the cirque on
the left and the slope of Sharitau North Ridge on the right, and ascend 15–30 m via
easy ruined rocks to the saddle of Sharitau North Ridge — a false Sharivcek Pass. 30–40
min from the pass.
Here, turn right and follow a gentle ice-and-snow North Ridge to reach the Lower
Route Description: В кф. Ю гребня
Description of a combined route of 3B category of complexity to the summit of Shkhara South via the Eastern slope of the South ridge.
116. Shkhara South via the Eastern slope of the Southern ridge (a combined route,
G. Klimova, cat. 3B, fig. 20, 21). From the initial bivouac on the platform of
the Eastern counterfort of Shkhara South’s Southern ridge (point 117), traverse
right towards the Southern branch of the Shkhara glacier — between glacial
drop-offs — and approach the rocks of the Eastern slope of Shkhara South’s
Southern ridge.
200–250 m ascent up the heavily deteriorated rocks of medium difficulty with
numerous talus shelves and short walls of above-medium difficulty, mainly bypassed
(“live” stones, protection). Then 60–80 m up-left. Further, 500–600 m ascent