23. Khodzha Laizi from the south, route category III, fig. 10 (Mukhamedova E., with a group – 1953)

The route starts from the Khodzha-Obi-Garm resort along a grassy slope to the southern ridge of the summit. Climb along the ridge to a rocky gendarme, which does not present particular difficulties. Pass the next gendarme on the right through a couloir with black stones. The couloir leads to a grassy slope, at the top of which a large rocky spire is visible. KHODJA LAISI CORNISES (IN SPRING)! 23 RESORT Fig. 10. The grassy ridge narrows and leads to rocks. Reach the sub-summit along the ridge. Traverse complex sections on the left of the ridge along scree. Before the summit, the ridge has a steep step down, 5–7 m high, where it is necessary to set up a rope descent. Steep, smooth rocks lead to the summit ridge. Reach the summit along easy rocks. The ascent takes 6 hours. Descend from the summit to the left along scree into the cirque beneath Ular peak. In winter, descend via the ascent route. The ascent takes 8–9 hours.

Photo 15. View of the second tier bastion from R16. Recommended ascent route:

• Photo 15. View of the second tier bastion from R16
• Photo 16. Section R17–R18. Rope descent. Photo 17. Entering the chimney R18–R19. Photo 18. Passing the chimney R19–R22.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category — technical ascent
2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alai, Gissar Ridge
3. Peak — proposed name — CHELYABINSK peak 4363.6 m
4. Ascent route — via the western edge Proposed category — 4B
5. Height difference — 700 m Length of complex sections — 170 m. Average steepness — 40°
6. Pitons driven: safety — 50, for creating ITO — 0, rock — -50, ice — 0, bolt — 0

56. Yakum from the southwest, route 2A cat. diff., fig. 29.

From the bivouac, ascend via the left couloir in the direction of the summit. Then turn right onto the slope towards the saddle between the gendarmes to the left of the Yakum pass. There may be snow on the slope. From the saddle, move up the grassy slope, bypassing individual rock outcrops, in the direction of the uppermost saddle in the second ridge. From the saddle, exit left under the wall, before reaching the couloir that descends steeply from the ridge. Ascend 40 m of steep rocks with piton belay to reach the couloir. Then continue up the couloir to the black rocks, from where follow the ledges to the ridge. Cairn. Fig. 29. Continue to the summit along the broken ridge with three gendarmes. Descend from the first gendarme 5–6 m down a sheer wall. The remaining gendarmes are traversed with alternating belay. Reach the summit via a broad and gentle ridge. Descend from the summit to the west — 1B cat. diff. (route 55). The ascent takes 4–5 hours.

XVIII EAAC (CIS) Alpinism Championship

Report on the Route Completion

Traverse of the Kulikalon Wall from v. Adamtash to v. Zierat, along the Eastern ridge, 5B category, V. Korotkov's route, 1968, completed by the team of the Tomsk Alpinism Federation's training camps Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk, 2009

Ascent Passport

1. Pamir-Alay, Zeravshan ridge, Fan Mountains, 5.3.1, Alaudin and Kulikalon gorges.
2. v. Adamtash – v. Zierat, along the Eastern ridge, traverse.
3. 5B category, V. Korotkov, 1968.
4. Route type: combined.
5. Height difference along the route sections:

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P. Borcov za mir, ZA, South buttress of the West ridge (V. Ivchik route, 77)

Approach to the route via the South buttress of the West ridge. From the Alaudin pass, go right-down in the direction of the West ridge of Borcov za mir peak. Then scree and grassy slopes lead to the base of the South buttress of the West ridge. The route starts at the base of the most prominent buttress. The start of the route is from the gendarme. oz. B. Apaudinskoe P. Borcov za mir via South buttress of the West ridge, cat. diff. R6 80 m, 30–40°, 3–2+ R5 20 m, 50°, + Gendarme R4 40 m, 60°, 4- R3 80 m, 45–55°, 3–3+

Traverse of Zindon 4A

from east through the summit to northwest View from the north from the right Zindon's gorge

V. Paykhamber, 3B, via Western ridge (A. Lopatko route, '73)

Night stay — at Murtnые lakes or 1 hour higher on the moraines of Lake Paykhamber (there is water), opposite v. Fagitor. From Murtnые lakes, left of v. Fagitor to l. Paykhamber and along it to the snowy saddle between v. Chinal and the 1st gendarme of the western ridge of Paykhamber. Climb the snowy slope (bergschrund!) to the saddle. From Murtnые lakes, 2–2.5 hours. The 1st gendarme is passed on the left via a narrow rock ledge 30 m, then up a steep, crumbling wall 5 m — exit to the ridge and further along the ridge. 2nd gendarme — left along rock ledges on a steep wall, with some overhangs (60 m). 3rd gendarme — to the right of the saddle along an indistinct internal corner 20 m and further along the ridge to the next saddle. 4th gendarme — to the right of the saddle along poorly defined rock ledges 40 m, then traverse to the crevice between the ridge and a rocky spur with a large overhanging rock. Here is a ledge for descent 30 m to a wide, scree-covered saddle between the 4th and 5th gendarmes. From the saddle, traverse the scree slopes to the ridge leading from the 5th gendarme to the "Nizhny" pass on the south side of the Paykhamber ridge. From this lateral ridge, ascend to the main ridge via a scree gully and then along a scree slope — to the saddle between the 5th and 6th gendarmes. Here is a control cairn. From the start of the ascent along the ridge — 4 hours. 6th gendarme — to the right along a vaguely defined internal corner 30 m, then along rock ledges to small walls, up and to the right onto the ridge and then to the saddle before the 7th gendarme. From the control cairn — 1.5–2 hours. 7th gendarme — from the saddle, up and to the right along a steep wall 30 m, into a narrow chimney 5 m (clearly visible). After the chimney, up and to the left along a ledge 10 m, then 10 m up, along a ledge to the right 40 m and 20 m up a crevice.

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v. Polytechnik, 4B, left buttress of the Northwest wall (B. Borisov's route, 78)

Climbing Passport

Climbing type: rock climbing Climbing area: Pamir-Alai, Zeravshan Range, Fann Mountains Peak, its height, and ascent route: v. Polytechnik (4400 m), via the North ridge Difficulty category: 3B Route characteristics:

• elevation gain — 700 m;

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MT POLITEKHNIK, 4B, 2ND LEFT BUTTRESS OF NORTHWEST FACE (V. DARUGA ROUTE, 79)

ASCENT DOCUMENT

Ascent class: rock Ascent area: Pamir-Alai, Zeravshan Range, Fann Mountains Peak, its height and ascent route: Mt. Politekhnik (4400 m), via North Ridge Difficulty category: 3B Route characteristics: height difference – 700 m;