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Description of the ascent to the summit of Laboda (4314 m) via the Northwest ridge, a 5th category of difficulty route, made in 1982 by a team of climbers led by Zaev Z.F.

Ascent Log

to the main peak of the Laboda massif (4314 m) via the Northwest ridge (left edge) 5B cat. diff.

  1. Technical category
  2. Main Caucasus Range, Digoria region, Laboda massif.
  3. Laboda peak 4314 m.
  4. The route is combined.
  5. Pitons hammered: rock — 132 (with stoppers) and 4 drilled; ice — 21; for creating ITO — 3.
  6. Number of climbing hours spent on ascent — 39, on descent — 6.
  7. Two overnight stays:
    1. On the ridge before the Utug rock pinnacle — sitting;
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Report on the ascent to Mezennaya Zapadnaya peak via the south wall and south-west ridge, category 4A difficulty.

Report

On the ascent (second ascent) to the summit of Meshchena Western via the southern wall and southwestern ridge, presumed to be category 4A, by the MAC "Freeline" mountaineering team from November 16, 2019, to November 17, 2019.

I. Ascent Report

1. General Information
1.1Full name, sports rank of the leaderKlindukhov Maxim Olegovich, 2nd sports rank
1.2Full name, sports rank of the participantOtkidchev Pavel Anatolyevich, 3rd sports rank
1.3Full name of the coachMotienko Nikolai Ilyich, CMS, instructor 1st category
1.4OrganizationMAC "Freeline"
2. Characteristics of the Ascent Object
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First ascent description of the Muldzugi-Barzond peak (3064 m) via North ridge from the West, category 1B, in Digoria, Skalisty Range.

Ascent Passport

  1. Digoria, Rocky Range, Classification section number — 2.6.
  2. Muldzugi-Barzond (3064 m); from the West via the Northern ridge.
  3. Proposed category: 1B; first ascent.
  4. The route is of a rocky nature.
  5. Height difference of the route — 350 m. Route length is about 900 m. Average steepness:
  • main part of the route: up to 60°.
  • entire route: 30°.
  1. Insurance on the route is provided by rock formations.
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Guidelines for ascending to the summit with a description of the necessary preparation and equipment for the climb.

As­cent time 5–6 hours.

Route rec­om­men­da­tion.

When pass­ing through the glacier to the saddle, it is nec­es­sary to keep a close watch on the stones fall­ing from the slopes of Na­khab­i­ta. Melon at any time of day.

  1. When mak­ing the as­cent in one day, the group should have good phys­i­cal and tech­ni­cal train­ing. Leave the foot of "Na­khab­i­ta" not later than 4:00 am. If the group's train­ing is weak, they should over­night on the saddle.
  2. The group should have: cram­pons, ice axes, main ropes, 4–5 ice screws and 2–3 rock pitons, pieces of rope for 2–3 slings.
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Description of the combined route category 3B to the top of Yuzhny Sugan through Lozhny Sugan in the Central Caucasus.

  1. Sugan False — South (combined route, category III, Fig. 12). The path from the "Nakhashbita" meadow (group of 4-8 people) to the summit of False Sugan is described in route 46. From the summit, descend via simple and moderately difficult rocks of the South ridge to the col. From the col, traverse via simple and moderately difficult, heavily destroyed rocks on the left side of the ridge ("live" stones — piton belay) bypass the rock "saw" consisting of several sharp gendarmes and reach the col. Then:
  • overcome the I gendarme directly via moderately difficult rocks;
  • descend to the col below the summit ascent of South Sugan;
  • from the col, via steep, moderately difficult rocks of the North ridge (piton
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Ascent record of Suvbash peak (4450 m) via the right part of the North-East wall, category of difficulty 5B, climbed by a group of climbers led by Konstantin Viktorovich in 1978.

Ascent Log

  1. Ascent type: rock
  2. Ascent area: Caucasus, 26
  3. Peak, its height, and route — Suganbashi, 4450 m via the right part of the NE wall
  4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B
  5. Route characteristics elevation gain — 1060 average steepness — 75 ° length of sections: I — 80 m, II — 290 m, III — 480 m, IV — 300 m
  6. Number of anchors used for belays to create FTO:
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