Ascent Record

1. Climbing category — technical
2. Climbing area — Pamiro-Alai, Rushan Range
3. Ascent route — first ascent to Peak Kosmonavtov via the east ridge (5420 m)
4. Ascent characteristics:
   • height difference — 700 m
   • average steepness — 35–40°
   • length of difficult sections — 100 m
5. Pitons used:
   • rock — 2

SPORTS ASSOCIATION "AVANGARD" ALPINISM CLUB "ODESSA" REPORT ON THE ASCENT OF MT. ASHAM VIA THE RIGHT COUNTERFORT OF THE 0–3 WALLS – CATEGORY 5A (FIRST ASCENT) ODESSA 1977

Map of the Area

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category: High-altitude technical.
2. Ascent area: South-West Pamir.
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: Togu (6141 m) via the North-Eastern ridge.
4. Proposed category difficulty: 4A
5. Route characteristics: height difference about 1640 m; average steepness 32°; section lengths: R1 — 1700 m R2 — 1090 m R3 — 2240 m R4 — 340 m

Peak Yangel (5950) (description) July 1973

Academician Mikhail Kuzmich Yangel

On October 25, 1971, at the age of 60, the outstanding scientist and designer in the field of rocket and space technology, candidate for membership in the Central Committee of the CPSU, deputy of the Supreme Soviet of the USSR, twice Hero of Socialist Labor, laureate of the Lenin and State Prizes of the USSR, academician Mikhail Kuzmich Yangel died suddenly. Mikhail Kuzmich Yangel was one of the most prominent designers and creators of domestic rocket and space technology. With his creative work, M.K. Yangel made an invaluable contribution to the development and improvement of rocket and space technology and the exploration of near-Earth space. M.K. Yangel's bright talent and great knowledge in many areas of science and technology, as well as significant experience in design and research work, allowed him to create a creative team that successfully solved the tasks set by the party and government. M.K. Yangel:

• Was born on October 25, 1911, in the Irkutsk region, in a peasant family
• Worked as a laborer, assistant master

EXPEDITION OF THE ROSTOV REGIONAL COMMITTEE FOR PHYSICAL CULTURE AND SPORTS TO THE SOUTH-WEST PAMIR REGION IN 1973.

Climbing Report

on the unnamed peak 5500 m via the south-eastern ridge — first ascent, category 2B difficulty. Climbing team members:

• Shalagin A. — 1st sports category — team leader
• Kolyshkin V. — 1st sports category — participant
• Makarenko B. — 1st sports category
• Fedorov A. — Master of Sports — trainer-observer
• Myasin P. — 1st sports category — participant
• Osipov N. — 1st sports category — participant

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category: high-altitude technical
2. Ascent area: SW Pamir, Vnukut valley
3. Peak 5580 m (Shyulyay South peak) via the S ridge
4. Category 2B difficulty, first ascent
5. Route description: 300 m elevation gain, average slope 45°. Section lengths: 1 – 855 m, 2 – 325 m, 3 – 28 m.
6. Pitons: 1 rock stopper for belay
7. Climbing time: 9 hours
8. Number of bivouacs:
9. Team leader: Navickas Stanislovas, Ivanovich Iskr; team members: Rauba Gediminas, badge holder

4.II.60

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category: high-altitude technical
2. Ascent area: SW Pamir, Vnukut valley
3. Peak 5580 m (g. Shyaulyay South) via South Ridge
4. Proposed category 2B, first ascent
5. Route characteristics: height difference 300 m. Average steepness 45°. Section lengths: 1st category difficulty 855 m, 2nd category difficulty 325 m, 3rd category difficulty 28 m.
6. Pitons used: for belay Rock pitons: —

67

Alpinist Activity of the Sports Committee of the Lithuanian SSR

Report on Category 2B Climb

On the first ascent to peak 5879 m (KPI) via the Western Counterfort by the team from the Sports Committee of the Lithuanian SSR (South-Western Pamir, Shakhdarin Range, Vakhan Range, Chondzhirav gorge). Leader: BAYORENE Yu.G. Team Coach: GUDIALIS A.V. A. Bloshkis O. Usikas 780, 2200, 30°, 6 m, 5 hours traverse. Committee for Physical Culture and Sports under the Council of Ministers of the Lithuanian SSR — 232675, Lithuanian SSR, VILNIUS, Zhemaites 6, tel. 63-53-53

Description and General Ascent Plan

Day 1

From the base camp located on the lake shore, next to the lateral moraine of the Abdukagor glacier (altitude 4000 m), the route passes along the left-bank moraine of the glacier to the point where the Kaskadny and Obvalov glaciers flow into it. Here, the moraine descends and has a convenient exit onto the ice. We crossed the merged Kaskadny and Obvalov glaciers and again reached the left-bank moraine of the Abdukagor glacier, where it sharply turns southeast (1 hour). A trail along the moraine leads to a flat area with water (1 hour). Slightly above the area, we descended from the moraine onto the glacier and began to move towards the middle part of the icefall formed by the left (orographically) branch of the Abdukagor glacier (30 minutes). The path goes:

• initially to the right,
• and higher - to the left (in the direction of travel) of its middle part (1 hour). The icefall is traversed in crampons. Above the icefall, there are three not very steep rises of the glacier, alternating with more gentle sections, which lead to the pass plateau. The glacier is heavily crevassed and covered with snow. Elevation gain from the icefall to the Abdukagor pass:
• 500–600 m

Report

On the ascent to the summit of Elbrus Eastern 5621 m.

from the east through the Achkeryakolsky lava flow Presumably 2A category of complexity Leader: Gavrilov Ilya Vladimirovich 2010 Addresses: 357500, Stavropol Territory, Pyatigorsk, Ogorodnaya st., 37-3, apt. 26 Gavrilov Ilya Vladimirovich, tel. +7-928-829-10-41, djilisutours@rambler.ru 357600, Stavropol Territory, Essentuki, Ordzhonikidze st., 84-3, apt. 43 Mashin Roman Ivanovich, tel. +7-928-285-57-46, romashin79@mail.ru 357700, Stavropol Territory, Kislovodsk, Olkhovskaya st., 14, apt. 1 Ovcharenko Danila Sergeevich, tel. +7-928-008-03-01, ovcharenko911@mail.ru