Description of the Ascent Route to the Summit of AYILAMA via the South Face

The summit of AYILAMA (4537 m) is located in the MAIN CAUCASUS RANGE between the peaks of NUAM-KUAM (4283 m) to the west and TSURUNGAL (4342 m) to the east. The lower, base part of the summit is composed of heavily weathered schist rocks. The upper part rises as inaccessible vertical bastions made of light gray granite. The grandiose South Face of AYILAMA towers directly above the "AYILAMA" alpine camp. The path from the "AYILAMA" alpine camp goes along a trail on the right (orographic) bank of the Koruldashi River, then the trail crosses to the left (orographic) bank and proceeds along an old moraine overgrown with forest. This moraine leads to a small glacier, covered with snow and rocks, under the South Face of AYILAMA. To the left lies the icefall of the Koruldashi Glacier. In the lower part of the face, three counterforts are clearly visible, separated by couloirs.

79. Ailama via North Face (the route is combined, V. Ivanova, 5B cat. diff., fig. 5, 17, 19). To the right of the Nuam-Kuam glacier (pic. 78) descend under the North Face of Ailama peak and, having passed under it (closed crevices, landslides, avalanches), approach the first right rocky counterfort of the North-East ridge of Ailama. From here, from the plateau upwards along the steep ice-and-snow slope to the first rocky outcrop of the counterfort. From the outcrop traverse upwards — to the right along the ice-and-snow slope with the intersection of ice gullies and two rocky outcrops to approach under the middle of the Lower (I) narrow rocky belt of the North Face of Ailama (stones, avalanches, landslides). Along steep rocks of above average difficulty 20–30 m up to the I rocky belt. From it 200–300 m up to under the II wide rocky belt to the right of a small snow patch. Along a difficult wall with two small shelves 50–60 m up to a wide shelf. On the shelf a sitting bivouac is possible. From the shelf 50–60 m up along steep rocks of above average difficulty (“live” stones) to the II rocky belt. From it 150–200 m up along a steep ice-and-snow slope to under the III rocky belt. Along difficult rocks of the wall 50–60 m up to a small site. On the site — a bivouac. From the initial bivouac — 12–14 hours. From the site along icy rocks of above average difficulty 30–40 m up to the III belt. Further 300–350 m up along a steep ice-and-snow slope with rocky outcrops to under the IV rocky belt. Along difficult rocks of the wall 10–12 m up to shelves. Along them 25–30 m up-to-the-right and through a difficult 5–6-meter wall exit to a wide shelf. Further:

• Along the shelf 30 m up-to-the-left
• Up 15 m along rocks of medium difficulty

128. Dzhangi­tau Za­pad­naya via South Ridge (combined route, O. Kha­za­rad­ze, 5B cat. dif., fig. 20, 22). From the “Morena Khal­de” base camp, cross the Khal­de Glacier and approach the right side of the broad triangular base of the South Ridge of Dzhangi­tau Za­pad­naya peak. To the left of the hanging glacier’s debris flows, 60 m to the right of the waterfall, via a rangklyuft, ascend 40–60 m up challenging and above-average-difficulty walls, slabs, and corners to a steep snowy slab — a ledge. Traverse 100–150 m left along the slab — ledge. After crossing the waterfall stream, approach a corner — couloir. Ascend 350–400 m up steep rocks of average and above-average difficulty with short challenging walls and ice-snow sections on the left side of the corner — couloir (loose rocks, “live” rocks) to the ledge of the Left Ridge of the triangle. Set up a bivouac on the ledge. 10–14 hrs from the base camp. From the ledge, ascend 150–200 m up a steep ice-snow couloir of above-average difficulty or the rocks on its right or left side (loose rocks, “live” rocks) to a ledge. Then, ascend 250–300 m up a steep ice-snow ridge — slope, rocks of average difficulty (“live” rocks), slabs, and an oblique snowy ledge to a ledge. Set up a bivouac. 10–12 hrs from the previous bivouac. From the ledge, ascend 400–500 m up the sharp snowy-rocky South Ridge of average difficulty, overcoming gendarmes head-on, bypassing a tower on the right, to a saddle. Set up a bivouac on the snowy slope behind the saddle. 8–10 hrs from the previous bivouac. From the bivouac, ascend 50–60 m up rocks of average difficulty, then traverse 200–250 m up the destroyed and snowy-rocky South Ridge (cornices) to reach the summit of Dzhangi­tau Za­pad­naya. 10–12 hrs from the previous bivouac.

118. Shkhara West via the South Ridge (combined route, L. Rollestone, category 5A, fig. 20, 21, 22). From Shkhara South (no. 117) descend along the snowy (with cornices) North Ridge to the col. Cross the snowy (with cornices) rocks of medium difficulty on the col, passing the gendarmes head-on, to reach a ledge. Bivouac. 7–9 hours from the initial bivouac on the East Counterfort. From the ledge, cross a sharp snowy ridge (cornice) and approach the ascent point of Shkhara West's South Ridge. From here, follow a rock shelf up and to the right, then ascend via a snow-and-ice gully to reach the South Ridge. Continue along the snowy rocks of medium and above-medium difficulty on the South Ridge to reach the base of a wall. Overcome the 25–30-meter difficult wall head-on. Continue along rocks of medium and above-medium difficulty, with some sections on the sharp snowy South Ridge, to reach a ledge below the II wall. Bivouac. 7–9 hours from the col bivouac. Overcome the 35–40-meter difficult II wall head-on, or possibly bypass it to the right via ledges. Continue along steep snowy rocks of above-medium difficulty (with cornices) to reach the base of the III wall. Make a difficult 40–50-meter ascent up the III wall to the ridge and exit onto the South shoulder. From the shoulder, follow the long snow-and-ice, partially sharp South Ridge (with cornices) to reach the summit of Shkhara West. 9–11 hours from the bivouac. 5–6 hours from the initial bivouac.

I. Category of ascent — category of technical ascents. 2. Region of ascent — Central Caucasus. 3. Peak and route — Western Shkhara (5058 m) via the center of the southwest face. 4. Estimated category of difficulty — 6th cat. diff. 5. Characteristics of the route: a) height difference — 1540 m; b) length of sections — 6th cat. diff. — 695 m; — 5th cat. diff. — 520 m; c) average steepness — 75°; e) steepness of the lower half — 60–65°; d) steepness of the rocky bastion — 90°.

Shkhara South via the East Ridge

(combined route by A. Naumov, category 5A, fig. 18, 21). The path from the "Ailama" alpine camp (group of 4-6 people) to the left-bank (orographic) moraine of the Shkhara glacier is described in route 184. From the moraine:

• descend to the right side of the glacier;
• traverse the flat part of the glacier to bypass the icefall and crevasses on the lower part of the glacier on the right;
• approach the base of the East Ridge of Shkhara South peak. From the glacier:
• ascend the scree slope, and higher up, the snow slope, bypassing the base of the East Ridge on the left, to the inner corner - the beginning of the rock ledge that rises to the right towards the takeoff of the East Ridge of Shkhara South peak;
• follow this ledge up and to the right onto the East Ridge, below the sheer wall. At the platform below the wall - a bivouac. From the "Ailama" alpine camp, 12-14 hours. From the platform, ascend a difficult 70-80-meter wall to a ledge, and from it, traverse the slabs to a snow-covered saddle on the East Ridge. From here, follow simple, smooth rocks ("loose rocks") on the wide, snow-covered East Ridge to approach the narrow crest of the East Ridge.

PASSPORT

Ascent to the summit of peak Borovikov (4880 m) via NE wall, category 5B difficulty Central Caucasus, Bezengi gorge. Elevation gain 1800 m Route length 3040 m Average slope 42° Route character combined Section lengths:

• 5 — 285 m
• 6 — 50 m Team's moving hours – 32; days – 3

138. Dzhora­sh­ty-Kur­sh­o­gan Se­ver­na­ya (North peak) via North­west ridge (combined route, 3A category, fig. 14, 15). From “Che­gem” tourist base (4-8 people group) follow the forest trail on the left bank of Gara­auz­su river upstream. After crossing Tyu­tyur­gu river, turn left and move up, first across alpine meadows and then across moraines along the right and then left bank of Tyu­tyur­gu river till reaching the tongue of Tyu­tyur­gu glacier. Move to the glacier and go along its left side (closed crevasses), bypass numerous crevasses and two icefalls from the left, ascend to the upper cirque of the glacier. In the cirque, turn left and approach the middle of the three snow couloirs descending from the Northwest ridge of Dzhora­sh­ty-Kur­sh­o­gan peak. Ascend via simple snow and then scree couloir to the scree col of Tyu­tyur­gu pass. Make a bivouac on the col. 4-5 hours from “Che­gem” tourist base. The path to Se­ver­na­ya (North) branch of Bu­lun­gu glacier via Ko­ru pass is described in route 135. Descend from Tyu­tyur­gu pass to the South branch of Bu­lun­gu glacier, turn right and ascend along the left slopes of Northwest ridge of Dzhora­sh­ty-Kur­sh­o­gan peak. Having passed two gendarmes, turn right. Cross the bergschrund via a snow bridge, ascend a steep snow slope to the col (cornice) of Northwest ridge of Dzhora­sh­ty-Kur­sh­o­gan peak, to the left of a small sharp gendarme. On the col, turn left and ascend simple, destroyed, snow-covered rocks along Northwest ridge, passing I and II gendarmes. Further, ascend simple snow Northwest ridge (cornices), then a wide ice-snow slope to reach a snow dome. From the dome, ascend a simple, gently sloping snow Northwest ridge to approach the rocky ascent to West shoulder. Ascend simple, inclined, destroyed rocks of medium difficulty of the ascent (protection):

• 80-100 m ascent to West shoulder.

2

3 ⑥ route cat. diff. 5B (1) (2) (3)

I. Technical difficulty category 2. Caucasus, Adyr-Su gorge 3. Peak Dzhadlyk via the West counterfort of the Western ridge 4533. 4. Proposed — 4th category of difficulty, first ascent. 5. Height difference: 700 m, length — 1025 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 7° (3870–4350), including 6th category of difficulty — 85° (3870–3900) 90° (3930–3940), 90° (4140–4155), 85° (4170 — traverse 20 m) 6. Pitons hammered in: rock (65+5ˣ)/12 6/4