n KAMOHCK-YPR.ABCKUH 5050 Aeroplane n 5400 5833 Route 2 Wtyrmaвoú noзерь Route category 5400 Object name 25. 15. Bero-uey 76 600,40',20,-12, 15 B. 5pabepuain T. Kozack A. Cyбopкина, B. Tpuyoreeba

I. Climbing class — technically challenging. 2. Climbing area — Central Pamir, Northern spur of the Vanch ridge, upper reaches of the Dustiroz river gorge. 3. Climbing route — peak "5307" via the Northern counterfort from the moraine of the Pravy Dustagor glacier. 4. Climbing characteristics: elevation gain — about 1600 m, average steepness — 45–50°, length of the challenging section — about 1100 m in height, starting from approximately 4000 m above sea level and up to the pre-summit ridge; total length of key sections — about 200 m. 5. Pitons hammered: rock — 62, ice — 20, bolted pitons — not used. 6. Total climbing hours — 36 (ascent — 27, descent — 9). 7. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics: total — 3 (two during ascent, one during descent). First bivouac at an altitude of about 4200 m. Can lay out a site for one tent. No water. Snow. Second bivouac on a shelf at an altitude of about 4750 m. Sitting bivouac. Safe. No water. Snow. Third bivouac on the Western ridge, 150–200 m beyond the summit. Can lay out a site for one or two tents. No water. Ice, snow. 8. Team name — sports group of the "Vysochnik" alpine camp, combined team from Gorky (SDSO "Burevestnik", DSO "Trud"). 9. Surname, name, patronymic of the team leader, participants, and their qualification: Rodionov Sergey Nikolaevich (leader) — 1st sports category, Vyshinsky Nikolay Nikolaevich — 1st sports category, instructor, Borisov Gennady Konstantinovich — 2nd sports category, instructor, Vavilov Alexander Ivanovich — 2nd sports category, instructor.

5100m P Gyp­sxy 18.07.70 A 16.07

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class — technically challenging First ascent, approximately 5-4 difficulty category. 2. Ascent region — Central Pamir, Northern spur of the Vanchsky Ridge. 3. Ascent route indicating peaks and their elevations: Unnamed peak — 5231 m (conditionally named p. Khrustalny) via the western ridge. 4. Ascent characteristics: elevation gain — 1731 m, average steepness — 50°, length of complex sections:

• ridge before the gendarme wall — 300 m,
• wall of the trapezoidal gendarme — 200 m,

I. Category of ascent — technical 2. Region of ascent — Central Pamir 3. Route of ascent — Peak Khrustalny (name), 5281 m, north face. 4. Characteristics of ascent: height difference — 1780 m, average steepness — 68°, length of difficult section — 430 m 5. Pitons hammered in: rock — 272, ice — 40, bolt — 0 6. Number of climbing hours — 42.5 hours 7. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics — 3 8. Team name — Alpine Club "Donbass" 9. Surname, name, patronymic of team leader, participants, and their qualification:

Ascent Passport.

I. Ascent class — high-altitude technical 2. Ascent region — Pamir, Larvazsky ridge. 3. Peak, its height, ascent route — first ascent of Pik Arnavad — 6083 m, north wall 4. Expected difficulty category — 6 5. Section characteristics: height difference — 1960 m, length of sections 5–6 km — 1550 m, average steepness of the wall — 65° 6. Pitons hammered: for belay for 110 rock 179 19, ice 134 13

As­cent cer­ti­fi­cate for the climb com­pleted in the 1974 USSR Al­pin­ism Cham­pi­onship. As­cent class: al­ti­tude-tech­ni­cal. As­cent re­gion: West­ern Pamir 5705 m. As­cent route: p. Ar­na­vad (east peak 6650 m) via the east face. As­cent char­ac­ter­is­tics: height dif­fer­ence 2180 m, av­er­age steep­ness 76°, length of the most dif­fi­cult sec­tions 2190 m (height dif­fer­ence 1750 m, steep­ness 79°). Num­ber of pitons: rock — 211, ice — 83, bol­lard — 4. Num­ber of man-hours — 104. Num­ber of biv­ouacs — nine, in­clud­ing prone — 2, semi-prone — 2, sit­ting — 5. Team name: team of the Len­ingrad Re­gion­al Coun­cil of the “Trud” Sports So­ci­ety. Team mem­bers: 1. Chu­nov­kin Gu­riy Al­exan­drov­ich, MS, cap­tain, coach. 2. So­lon­ni­kov Vik­tor Alex­san­drov­ich MS par­tic­i­pant 3. So­lon­ni­kov Vladi­mir Alex­san­drov­ich MS par­tic­i­pant 4. Sha­ly­gin Yuriy Va­sil­ye­vich CMS par­tic­i­pant 5. Pa­sech­ni­kov Le­o­nid Vladi­mi­ro­vich CMS par­tic­i­pant

I. Climbing category: technically challenging. 2. Climbing area: Central Pamir. 3. Ascent route indicating peaks and their heights: peak Kamensk Ural'skiy (conventional name), peak 5080 m via the North Counterfort. 4. Characteristics of the ascent: height difference 700–750 m, average steepness 55°, slope length 60 m + 150 m + 120 m. 5. Number of pitons hammered in:

• rock pitons — 37
• ice screws — 9

Kosmonavtov Druzhestvennykh Ridge

Socstran (5500 m)

Report

on the ascent of the Leningrad Sports Committee team to Peak Shchurovsky via the Western wall "Surka" and the edge of the bastion of the Northern wall, category 5B (variant) Team captain — S.G. Kalmykov Team coach — A.I. Moshnikov Central Caucasus January – February 1983

Brief geographical description and sporting characteristics of Peak Shchurovsky

Peak Shchurovsky is located in the Main Caucasian Range, which forms a complex zigzag in this area. The south-eastern ridge descends to the Western peak of Chatyn-Tau, and the north-eastern ridge descends to the Lожный Chatyn pass. To the south of the peak, reaching an altitude of 4100 m, is the famous Ushba plateau, descending along the western slopes of the peak with a grandiose Ushba icefall. The northern wall of the peak faces the Shkheldinsky glacier. On its kilometer-long slope, cut by snow and ice couloirs, the upper bastion stands out with a dark steep face, the right edge of which rests on the north-western counterfort, having a steep western wall. The rocks of the bastion and the western wall "Surka" are characterized by their monolithic nature and smoothed relief, reminiscent of the relief: