Activity Feed
Route Description: С стене
First ascent of the peak Arnavad (6083 m, Pamir) by the north face, difficulty category — 6.
Ascent Passport.
I. Ascent class — high-altitude technical 2. Ascent region — Pamir, Larvazsky ridge. 3. Peak, its height, ascent route — first ascent of Pik Arnavad — 6083 m, north wall 4. Expected difficulty category — 6 5. Section characteristics: height difference — 1960 m, length of sections 5–6 km — 1550 m, average steepness of the wall — 65° 6. Pitons hammered: for belay for 110 rock 179 19, ice 134 13
Route Description: В стене
The ascent record of the "Trud" team to the peak Arnavad via the eastern wall in the Pamir Mountains in 1974, details of the route and team composition.
Ascent certificate for the climb completed in the 1974 USSR Alpinism Championship. Ascent class: altitude-technical. Ascent region: Western Pamir 5705 m. Ascent route: p. Arnavad (east peak 6650 m) via the east face. Ascent characteristics: height difference 2180 m, average steepness 76°, length of the most difficult sections 2190 m (height difference 1750 m, steepness 79°). Number of pitons: rock — 211, ice — 83, bollard — 4. Number of man-hours — 104. Number of bivouacs — nine, including prone — 2, semi-prone — 2, sitting — 5. Team name: team of the Leningrad Regional Council of the “Trud” Sports Society. Team members: 1. Chunovkin Guriy Alexandrovich, MS, captain, coach. 2. Solonnikov Viktor Alexsandrovich MS participant 3. Solonnikov Vladimir Alexsandrovich MS participant 4. Shalygin Yuriy Vasilyevich CMS participant 5. Pasechnikov Leonid Vladimirovich CMS participant
Route Description: С кф.
Ascent to Peak 5080 m via the North Buttress in the Central Pamir, technically difficult, height difference 700–750 m, 55°.
I. Climbing category: technically challenging. 2. Climbing area: Central Pamir. 3. Ascent route indicating peaks and their heights: peak Kamensk Ural'skiy (conventional name), peak 5080 m via the North Counterfort. 4. Characteristics of the ascent: height difference 700–750 m, average steepness 55°, slope length 60 m + 150 m + 120 m. 5. Number of pitons hammered in:
- rock pitons — 37
- ice screws — 9
The route to Socstran peak (5500 m) via the southern spur from the Dikcosmonauts Glacier, description of the path, and key moments of the ascent.
Kosmonavtov Druzhestvennykh Ridge
Socstran (5500 m)
Route Description: Ю склону от р. Обимазар
Description of the 4A category route to the summit Eduraagap (5400) in the Somottuy ridge.
0–1 Gena — 20 m. Eduraagap (5400) 4A, 10. solo by A. Remig G. +3 74%.
Yederis
Route Description: В стене
### Description of the first ascent of Peak Sovetskaya Ukraina (5,764 m) via the eastern wall in the Pamir Mountains, with a detailed analysis of the route and technical details.
Climbing Passport
- MOUNTAIN ASCENT TYPE: HIGH-ALTITUDE TECHNICAL
- ASCENT REGION: PAMIR, DARVAZ RANGE SPUR
- PEAK, HEIGHT, ASCENT ROUTE: PIK SOVIETSKAYA UKRAINE, 5764 m, via the Eastern wall from L. Suraysh
- PROPOSED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY — 6B
- ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS: Height difference 1560 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty, 150 m, 415 m, 290 m, 545 m, 739 m. Average slope 70°.
- PITS SET: for belaying, for creating artificial anchors.
Route Description: 3 гребню
Ascent to the summit of Tbumtsa via the North-West wall, complexity category 5B, first ascent.
3.
Non-trivial ascents on the route Тбумцу V — А Kam. on the right side according to the special task in the "5200" camp.
Route Description: ц. кф. СВ стены
Ascent of the unnamed peak 5256 in the Pamir Mountains via the central counterfort of the North-Eastern wall, rated as 5B difficulty category.
- Climbing type — high-altitude technical
- Climbing area — Pamir, North spur of Darvaz Range
- Peak 5256 (unnamed), central buttress of NE wall
- Proposed difficulty category — 5B
- Route characteristics: – height difference — 1900 m – length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. — 1135 m – average steepness — 60°
- Pitons hammered: for belaying, for creating ITO (Intermediate Technical Object)
Route Description: с северо-востока
### Ascent Route to Peak 5285 in the Trans-Alay Range Category 5A difficulty level, with a detailed description of the path and technical details.
Protocol № 249 dated April 8, 1966
Cat. diff. 4A
Description of the first ascent to the summit 5285 m (Peak Akыk-Too)
The summit 5285 m is located in the western part of the main Trans-Alay range, at the junction with the ridge where Peak Sverdlova is situated. The ascent was made from the intermediate camp at 3800 m of the Sverdlovsk Jubilee expedition. The intermediate base camp at 3800 m was located on an old moraine covered with grass, near a small lake, in the upper reaches of the Kok-Kyik valley. The path from the 3800 m camp goes along the left (orographically) bank of the Kok-Kyik river across a grassy slope. After 40–50 minutes of walking, there is an exit onto scree, and it is necessary to turn right, bypassing the spurs of Peak Kuznetsova. After an hour and a half to two hours of walking, it is necessary to cross the ridge coming from the summit 5150 m (Peak Metallurgov Urala). Overcoming the ridge takes 20–30 minutes. Behind the ridge begins a flat black lateral moraine (orographically left of the Kok-Kyik river), which leads almost under the route. On the flat moraine, it is not difficult to find a convenient area for tents. Elevation 4200 m. The entire approach from the 3800 m camp takes 3–4 hours. The approach to the wall occurs across a closed glacier. Closer to the wall, it is necessary to walk between avalanche deposits. One or two rope lengths before the wall, a bergschrund is encountered, which is overcome via a snow bridge. Further up the ice-snow slope, we exit with belay under the beginning of the rock section.
Route Description: ЮЗ кф. 3 гребня
A description of the ascent route to the summit Imakouk (4533 m) with a detailed breakdown of the stages and categories of complexity.
5 Imakouk
4533 m Hovebka №2 4350 m R19
- R17
- R18 R16
- R14–R15
- R12–R8