Shaan-Kaya — 7

Author: Kirill Gostev, Yalta Shaan-Kaya, "Pianissimo" route (6B extra F6b/6c, A4, 280 m) The struggle with the mountain is a struggle with oneself; if you're a hero, your path isn't simple!!! Everything started cheerfully and enthusiastically, but gradually the exclamations of "Hooray!!!" on the prolonged overhang turned into a state that fully corresponds to the name of the route — "Pianissimo", only occasionally did falling boulders with a loud thud stir our consciousness. In general, everything turned out great. Thanks to our support group:

• Sergey Voshchanov,
• Alexander Rushkovsky (our altitude operator),
• Evgeny Meshkov. "The Guardian of Secrets" and chronicler of Shaan-Kaya's history, Yuri Borisovich Burlakov, periodically visited the mountain to observe us. During rare meetings with him, he wished us success and infected us with the same enthusiasm and fervor that, probably, accompanied the first conquerors of Shaan-Kaya, led by Yuri Borisovich.

Crimea. Kush-Kaya. First Ascent 2A "Krasny Ugol"

Alpinism. Written by Volikov, April 3, 2014, 0:18 We arrived in January in Crimea at the Kush-Kaya mountain massif with mountaineering objectives:

• to do some climbing;
• to gain guiding experience;
• to hone our skills with "iron". Actually, we came to celebrate the New Year, drink wine, and take a dip in the winter sea. Nothing out of the ordinary was expected. But... everything is available on Kush-Kaya, except for a 2A route. So, we started looking for another "double", and this is what came out of it.

Ascent Passport

1. Section number according to KMGV - 8.2.

I. Ascent Passport

№ п.­п.	1. General Information
1.1	Full Name, Sports Rank of the Leader	Vasilenko Olga Igorevna, 2nd sports rank
1.2	Full Name, Sports Rank of Participants	Stuchilina Anna Anatolyevna, "Alpinist of Russia" badge
1.3	Full Name of Coach	Nadtochiy Sergey Valentinovich

Fig. 1. Map of the Orlenok massif area. Peaks: Western (3180 m), Main (3190 m), Eastern (3140 m). On the map - З, Гл, В.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: rock climbing
2. Ascent area: Karachay-Cherkess Republic, Arkhyz, Psyish River valley
3. Peak, route: Orlenok Eastern, 3140 m via Western spur and South-Eastern ridge
4. Expected complexity category: 1B, first ascent
5. Height difference:
   • 600 m;
   • total route length - 1500 m;

1. Climbing area: Caucasus, Krasnodar region to Marukh pass, 2.1.
2. Summit name: p. 2160 m (Fisht massif). Route name: Via the North-West edge of the Western wall of the Northern shoulder of Fisht peak, dedicated to the memory of rescuer S.N. Plyushchenko.
3. Category: 6A cat. diff., first ascent.
4. Route type: Technical rock climbing.
5. Route height difference: Route length: 640 m (GPS) Section length: 590 m. V cat. diff. – 115 m; VI cat. diff. – 100 m; VI+ cat. diff. – 205 m. Average slope:

Characteristic	Value
CLIMB CLASS	traverse
CLIMB AREA	Western Caucasus, Arkhyz, northern spur of the Sofiyskiy ridge between the valleys of the Psyysh and Sofiya rivers
PEAK ROUTE	60 let KChAO, Peshtera, Septemvri (proposed by the first ascenders), Kelbashi
ASSUMED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY	3A (winter)
ROUTE DESCRIPTION	– Rock and snow, mostly ridge, absolute altitude difference 643 m
NUMBER OF PITOONS	12
NUMBER OF TRAVERSE HOURS	12 hours (from the start of the route to the summit of Kelbashi)