I. Ascent Passport

№ п.­п.1. General Information
1.1Full Name, Sports Rank of the LeaderVasilenko Olga Igorevna, 2nd sports rank
1.2Full Name, Sports Rank of ParticipantsStuchilina Anna Anatolyevna, "Alpinist of Russia" badge
1.3Full Name of CoachNadtochiy Sergey Valentinovich
1.4OrganizationOO "Alpinist Club 'Kerch'"
2. Characteristics of the Ascent Object
2.1RegionCrimea
2.2Valley
2.3Section Number according to the 2013 Classification Table
2.4Name and Height of the SummitSokol, 473 m
2.5Geographical Coordinates of the Summit (latitude/longitude), GPS Coordinates *(1)
3. Characteristics of the Route
3.1Name of the RouteRiddle
3.2Proposed Category of Difficulty2B
3.3Degree of Route ExplorationFirst Ascent
3.4Character of the Route TerrainRocky
3.5Height Difference of the Route (altimeter or GPS data)250 m
3.6Route Length (in meters)367 m
3.7Technical Elements of the Route (total length of sections with different difficulty categories, indicating terrain type (ice-snow,I cat. rock — 20 m. II cat. rock — 97 m. III cat. rock — 90 m. IV cat. rock — 75 m.
rocky))
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3.8Descent from the SummitDescent on foot along the trail towards Novy Svet or Sudak
3.9Additional Characteristics of the RouteLack of water
4. Characteristics of the Team's Actions
4.1Time of Movement (team's walking hours, in hours and days)7 hours
4.2Overnight StaysNo
4.3Start of the Route11:00, June 5, 2021
4.4Reaching the Summit18:00, June 5, 2021
4.5Return to the Base Camp19:00, June 5, 2021
5. Responsible for the Report
5.1Full Name, e-mailVasilenko Olga Igorevna, dev2000@mail.ru

II. Description of the Ascent

1. Characteristics of the Ascent Object

1.1. General Photo of the Summit — see Photo 1 — taken on July 1, 2020. Location — Galitsyn Trail, Novy Svet.img-0.jpeg

Photo 1. Sokol Mountain 1.2.img-1.jpeg

Photo 2. Route Profile. Snapshot taken during the passage from R0 station of the "Gamma" route. The participant is at the location of the piton.

2. Characteristics of the Route

2.1. Technical Photography of the Route, photo taken from a rocky outcrop, 400 m to the right of the beginning of the Western wall of Sokol — see Photo 2img-2.jpeg

Photo 3. Technical Photography of the Route. 2.3. Technical Characteristics of Route Sections *(5)

Section №Terrain CharacterCategory of DifficultyLength, mType and Number of Pitons
R0–R1internal corner15 m II, 40 m III, 5 m I60 mAnchors — 3 pcs, Friends — 6 pcs
R1–R2Initially not steep terrain, at the end of the section steep —30 m II, 22 m III, 8 m V.60 mFriend — 3, Piton — 1, Anchor
"mirror"anchor — 1
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R2–R3Traverse of "mirror"45 m IV+45 mAnchor pitons — 6, friend — 1, piton — 1
R3–R4Simple15 m easy, 15 m II.30 mFriend — 1 pc
R4–R5Rocky "gutter"10 m II, 30 m III, 10 m I.50 mFriends — 4 pcs, Anchors — 3 pcs, Anchor piton — 1 pc
R5–R6Wall with a watercourse15 m II+, 35 m easy, 10 m I60 mAnchor — 2 pcs
R6–R7Simple transition behind the bend in the "circus"10 m IINot used
R7–R8System of cracks leading out of the rocky "circus"10 m II 20 m III 30 m IV60 mFriends — 3 pcs, Anchors — 2 pcs, Anchor piton — 2

img-3.jpeg

3. Characteristics of the Team's Actions

3.1. All sections were climbed with free climbing, on the second rope before the section V cat. sl. 8 m a piton was hammered 10 mm. As a station R2 was used station of the route "Po nozh", also on section 3 (R2–R3) was used piton route "Kosyak".

Section №DescriptionPhoto №
R0–R155 m. From the big juniper upwards along the crack to the intersection with the route "Stenka Gamma". Sometimes rockfall hazard — a big lying stone above the crack on the right. Station on a juniper bush. 15 m II, 40 m III4
R1–R2Initially upwards 25 m, then to the right at 2 o'clock in the direction of R2 station of the route "Po nozh". It5
is also R2 of "Riddle". 7–8 m before the station, a piton was hammered. 30 m II, 22 m III, 8 m V.
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R2–R345 m. Traverse to the right at 3 o'clock to a pine bush. Belaying is problematic. Bypass the bush from above, then to the right upwards at 1 o'clock to the piton of the route "Kosyak", after the piton to the right to the hollow, then descended a bit to a big juniper. 45 m IV+6
R3–R430 m. Simple transition under the base of the gutter between two small summits. Station on a tree — yew. 15 m easy, 15 m II.7
R4–R5Climb the gutter. Then a simple transition 10 m under a small wall with a watercourse. Station on a tree. At the exit from the gutter, there are stones that can be knocked down by a rope on the second climber, who is recommended to move away from the line of fall, or climb to the right. In rain, the section is rockfall hazardous. 10 m II, 30 m III, 10 m I.8
R5–R6R6–R7. 57 m. Upwards along the watercourse on its right part, then along simple terrain slightly to the left in the direction of the rocky "circus". Station before the bend on a pine tree. 15 m II+, 35 m easy, 10 m I
R6–R710 m. Transition through the bend into the rocky "circus". Station on a pine tree 5 m from the bend. 10 m II
R7–R860 m. Upwards from the pine tree 10 m in the direction of the right part of the "circus", then traverse to the left along the system of cracks at 11 o'clock, bypassing a broken juniper from below, upwards at 11 o'clock along cracks to a big pine tree and then upwards along a crack to the exit from the "circus". In the cracks, there are loose stones! Station behind the bend on a juniper.9
10 m II 20 m III 30 m IV.
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3.2. Photo of the team on the summit near the remains of the triangulator — see Photo 10 and Photo 11

img-4.jpeg

Photo 10. Vasilenko O.I. on the summitimg-5.jpeg

Photo 11. Stuchilina A.A. on the summit. 3.3. The route is recommended for prepared participants with experience not less than 2B.

Recommendations and Route Features:

  • Insurance is organized almost everywhere easily
  • Terrain is reliable
  • There are many loose stones
  • Cellular connection is available
  • Descent along the trail towards Novy Svet or Sudak

We propose to classify it as 2B.img-6.jpeg

Photo 4. Section R0–R1img-7.jpeg

Photo 5. Section R1–R2img-8.jpeg

Photo 6. Section R2–R3img-9.jpeg

Photo 7. Section R3–R4img-10.jpeg

Photo 8. Section R4–R5img-11.jpeg

Photo 9. Section R7–R8

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Sources

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