336. Gvergishi­sher via North Ridge (rocky route, category 1B difficulty, fig. 32). From the village of Nakra, follow the trail up the left slope of the gorge. Then turn left and ascend along the stream to the left-bank moraine of the Gvergishi­sher Glacier. From the moraine, move up the glacier to the left. From the upper left corner of the glacier, ascend easy, heavily fragmented rocks of the couloir, then 150–160 m of straightforward steep rocks (belaying required) up to the North Ridge of Gvergishi­sher. Here, turn left and follow easy, straightforward rocks of the wide North Ridge; then ascend a 20–25-meter straightforward rock pitch to the summit of Gvergishi­sher. 2.5–3 hours from the moraine.

44. Maly Donguzorun from the south (route 1Б category). From the "Baksan" alp camp along the highway up the Baksan valley. Before reaching the "Itkol" hotel, cross the bridge over the Baksan river below the confluence of the Donguzorun river, and also over the Donguzorun. Then move along the gorge path, which goes through a beautiful dense forest almost without ascent along the right bank of the Donguzorun; further, the path rises sharply, exits the forest and leads to the Donguzorunkel lakes. From the second lake:

• along the right bank of the river flowing into it, go to the right-bank moraine of the Nameless glacier, lying under the southern slopes of the Maly Donguzorun peak;
• then ascend the moraine and at its end, turning right, descend to the talus couloir descending from the East ridge, to the right of a small snowy slope of Maly Donguzorun (from the second Donguzorunkel lake — 1.5–2 hours);
• on the right or left side of the couloir (rockfalls go along the couloir!) ascent to the talus,

Description, Marinuto

The path from "Terekos" to "Kurnik". At the beginning, at the 14-year end, it does not provide conveniently erroneous simple and impeccable things. From "Kurnik" common smooth and short and dry oxidations, refusing oxidations. Along the length of oxidation, given in oxidation, in 12–14 years at 8:00–10:00:

• refusing smooth
• not refusing oxidation yielding from the execution of skis. The violation is not violated for oxidation, gives and 10 m. Inside conveniently marinuto, violation. With a violation at the 14-year end, and 80 m. Inside, violation, on

1 reddish rock 2 north-west ridge 3 Descent route to Nrik-chat valley

RUSSIAN MOUNTAINEERING FEDERATION

ROUTE SCHEME

Peak Kavkaz, 4037 m via NW wall, left

The description is compiled based on materials from the training part of Ulutau a/l.

Description of the Approach to the Route

From the AGЛК "Jailyk", cross the bridge over the Adyr-Su river downstream. Behind the bridge, to the left near the source, a trail begins, going through the forest up the slope in the direction of the Jalovchat lake. Climbing along the trail:

• Cross to the left (green) moraine, leading to the N. counterfort of the E. ridge in Koy-Avgan.
• Continue ascent along the moraine.
• The N. counterfort of the E. ridge is dissected by a large couloir in its lower part.
• Ascend along the green moraine until the upper part of the counterfort dissected by the couloir starts to overhang on the left.
• Here, turn left and ascend up the slope to the rocks of the counterfort, leaving the couloir to the right.
• The start of the route is in the middle (between two rocky spurs) of the lower part of the bastion, which is crowned with a rocky tooth and connected by a narrow ridge to the main part of the counterfort.

331. Nenskra via North Face (combined route, A. Snesareva, cat. 4A, fig. 32, 44). From the initial bivouac on the snow plateau of the Nenskra Glacier under the North Face of Nenskra peak, ascend via an avalanche-prone couloir, then via easy and moderately difficult rocks alternating with snowy slopes and small walls (loose rocks) to the Upper Rock Belt. From there, ascend steep, heavily broken rocks of above-average difficulty to the Upper Rock Island. Then, via a steep ice-snow slope with rock outcrops, reach the col on the ridge between the Southwest and Northeast peaks of Nenskra. From the glacier plateau, 7-8 hours. From the col, turn right and ascend simple rocks of the ridge spur to the summit of Nenskra Southwest. Descend to the col via the ascent route. From the col, via monolithic simple and moderately difficult rocks of the ascent, then along the long Western ridge, ascend to the summit of Nenskra Northeast. From the Northeast summit, descend via heavily broken simple and moderately difficult rocks of the Northeast ridge to the col under the Big Gendarme. Overcome the Gendarme head-on via simple rocks of the ridge, then via rappelling and sport descent to the saddle under the snowy shoulder. From the saddle, via a simple snow-covered rocky ridge, exit onto the snowy shoulder. From the shoulder, via a gentle snow-covered rocky ridge, descend to the snow plateau under the nameless Main Caucasian Ridge pass. From the Southwest peak, 5-7 hours.

319. Leiraq via the West Ridge (combined route, T. Suprunova, category 3A complexity, fig. 32, 43). On the right side of the Leiraq Glacier (milestone 316) ascend along the northern slopes of the Unnamed Peak to the saddle in the West Ridge of Leiraq peak — the Alpinist Pass. Here, turn right and, crossing the bergschrund, ascend the steep snow-ice slope or, to the left, along the scree and easy rocks to the Alpinist Pass. Bivouac. 5–7 hours from the village of Nakra. At the pass, turn left and reach the West Ridge rocks of Leiraq peak. Follow the straightforward 200-meter West Ridge, overcoming three small gendarmes directly (with protection), to reach a plateau with a small lake. From the lake, ascend a 30–40-meter wall of moderate difficulty (using pitons) to a plateau. Then, traverse 30–40 meters of steep rocks of moderate difficulty («unstable rocks», with protection); subsequently, follow the straightforward rocky, partially snow-covered (with cornices) West Ridge with an ice pitch to reach the summit of Leiraq. 5–6 hours from the Alpinist Pass.

As­cen­sion along the North­ern coun­ter­force and North­west

De­scrip­tion of Shar­ni­rog

From the ridge of the Bok­tu­zu­ruk hinge to the North, compressed between the North­ern coun­ter­forc­es of v. Ka­za­ra and 300–400 m away from them, be­hind large boul­ders, by­pass­ing the last corn­er of the na­ga­to­go. The en­trance to the boul­ders of the root and the growth are at­trib­uted to the whole Shar­ni­rog. With beds along sim­ple ris­ing ter­rain, com­pressed coun­ter­force wool up­wards. Solid­i­fi­ca­tion with hard 60 m along the spe­cif­ic corn­er with a сквоз­nym for­est, then 150–200 m along com­pressed me­dium-dif­fi­culty ter­rain to mi­nua­da­li. Above the skill com­pressed with skele­ton (along mi­nua­dale konzro­reyevom 150). Skill-ful wool, en­circled from the left. Be­hind it up­wards along com­pressed