Passport

Ascent made in the 1971 USSR Championship on

Alpinism

1. Class of ascent: technically difficult.
2. Region of ascent: Central Caucasus.
3. Route of ascent with indication of peaks and their heights: Ushba Malaya via: South wall, height 4320 m. (first ascent).
4. Characteristics of ascent: height difference: 960 m. average steepness: approximately 59°, average steepness of difficult

REPORT

on the first ascent to the summit of Ushba Malaia via the Southwest wall, Caucasus, category 5B, carried out by the team of the Sports Committee of the Ukrainian SSR led by Grigorenko-Prigoda Yu.I. 1981 Profile of M. Ushba

TABLE of main characteristics of the route to v. Ushba M. via the Southwest wall

1885

Ascent Passport

I. Climbing category — rock climbing 2. Climbing region — Central Caucasus 3. Peak USHBA Malaya on D-3 wall 4. Presumed difficulty category 5B 5. Elevation gain 800 m Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty grade 400 m. Average steepness of complex sections 80° 6. Number of pitons driven for belay 52 7. Number of travel hours 18

Illustration Album

To the description of the ascent via the North-East wall of Severnaia Ushba Moscow, 1960 www.alpfederation.ru

List of Conventional Symbols

• Assault group route
• Support group route
• Reconnaissance route
• Bivouacs

COMMITTEE FOR PHYSICAL CULTURE AND SPORTS UNDER THE COUNCIL OF MINISTERS OF THE UKRAINIAN SSR To the blessed memory of our friend, International Class Master of Sports of the USSR, Nikolai MASHCHENKO ASCENT TO THE NORTH PEAK OF USHBA VIA THE CENTER OF THE EAST FACE (report on the ascent) Kiev — 1971

I. Sporting Characteristics of the East Face of North Ushba

Ushba is located in close proximity to the Main Caucasian Range and is situated in a spur branching off from the range near Shchurovsky Peak. The western slopes of South Ushba and the eastern slopes of North Ushba are the most sheer and have considerable extent. The east face of North Ushba starts from the Chalaat Glacier. The approach to the face is quite complex and takes about 2 hours from the alpinist camp. The face is sunlit from 6:00 to 11:00.

ASCENT TO NORTH USHBA VIA THE EASTERN WALL /"MIRROR"/ FROM CHALAAT GLACIER /Climbing Report/ Kiev — 1968 Ascent route via the "mirror" of the Eastern wall of N. Ushba.

1. Introduction

1. Brief Characteristics of the Ushba Massif

Ushba is located in close proximity to the Main Caucasian Ridge, branching off from it near Shchurovsky Peak. The Ushba massif features two sharp peaks separated by a shallow saddle. The north-eastern peak has an absolute height of 4695 m. A sharply descending and short ridge with a small peak, Gulba, extends from it.

Report

On the ascent of Ushba North peak (4694 m) via the northeast wall through the "pillar" by the team from the Moscow Regional Sports Committee, USSR Championship 1981, technical class, first ascent

I. General Information

In accordance with the regulations of the 1981 USSR Alpine Championship, the technical class competition is held in the Caucasus. The twin-peaked Ushba is the most popular and perhaps the most inaccessible peak in the Caucasus, attracting mountaineers for over 100 years. Ushba routes have been entered into the USSR championships around forty times. Climbers have been awarded:

• 54 gold medals;
• over 40 silver medals;
• around 10 bronze medals. Both peaks have no easy ascent routes due to their location in one of the spurs of the Main Caucasian Ridge, with the northern peak connected to it via the northern ridge - the most accessible path to Ushba North. The steep, dual-sloping "roof" of Ushba drops off with sheer walls to the:

Central Council of DSO "Avangard"

To the blessed memory of Ukrainian climbers Artur Glukhontsev and Vitaly Timokhin we dedicate

Ascent to South Ushba via the Central part of the West wall

(report on the ascent) V. Monogarov Kiev—1965 The route via the Central part of the West wall of South Ushba, traversed by the combined team of CS DSO "Avangard" in July 1965.

1. Technical class.
2. Central Caucasus
3. Ushba South summit 4710 m via the center of the SW wall through the "Stolb" on Golubev's route.
4. Category 5B, 2nd ascent of the "Golden" route of 1981.
5. Elevation gain: 1460 m, length 2005 m. Length of sections with category 5–6 difficulty: 1030 m. Average steepness of main sections is 72° (3490–4630 m). Of these, category 6 sections: 855 m - (3520–4110 m) 575 m at 80–81°; (4182–4400 m) 145 m at 68°; (4470–4630 m) 135 m at 80°.
6. Pitons used: | Rock | Bolt | Nuts | Ice | | :--: | :--: | :--: | :-: | | 134 | 0 | 144 | 10 |

Fig. 57

1. Ascent to the peak Perednyaya Chotcha (3637 m) via the counterfort of the northern wall — category 4B difficulty (fig. 57)

From Dombay plain by car to the Severny shelter. From the Severny shelter:

• via a log across the Khokel river
• further along the trail on the left side of the Chotcha gorge to the snowy couloir under the northern wall of the Chotcha peak Ascent:
• up the middle of the couloir to its middle part
• then via the "ram's foreheads" and uncomplicated rocks