Peak 5010

(Pik Sibiryak)

5010 m

Report

Tomsk Region Team (TFA) report on the ascent to Peak 5010 (Pik Sibiryak) via the eastern ridge and southern crest. "2A" Participants:

• Temerev I.M.
• Kopytov F.A.
• Terekhin V.A.

Ascent Log

1. Altai, Katunskie Belki ridge, Akkem valley, section 1.
2. Peak Abalakova V., 3556 m, via East ridge.
3. Proposed 2A cat. diff., first ascent.
4. Route character is combined.
5. Height difference 450 m, length 700 m, average slope 40°.
6. Pitons hammered: rock and wired 6.
7. Team's travel hours — 12 h, days 2.
8. One overnight stay in a tent on the ridge.
9. Leader Afanasiev A.E. MS. Participants:

Участок R0–R1. Snow slope 40°, 200 m. 2nd diff. cl. The ridge is bypassed on the right. Участок R1–R2. Over rocks 55°, 60 m — to the main ridge 4th diff. cl. Участок R2–R3 — 150 m, 40°, main ridge, at the end a control point. Участок R3–R4 — 200 m — 50°, rocks 3rd diff. cl., in the direction to the sharp жандарму on the ridge. Участок R4–R5 — 150 m. To the right along the rock shelf 2nd diff. cl. Участок R5–R6 — left upwards along rocks and shelves 100 m, 50°. Descent. Участок R6–R7 — 20 m. Snowy rocks 55°, 4th diff. cl. Entry onto the edge. Участок R7–R8. 1st ва­лет on the ridge, from the left along the wall with a ще­лью, in counter-pressure 10 m. transition into a steep groove 15 m. Total length of the section 30 m., steepness 85°, 5th diff. cl.

Ascent Record

Region — Altai, Katunsky ridge. Summit — Jara Zimerman peak (Altai-Czech Friendship). Route — combined. Estimated category of difficulty — 2B. Elevation gain — 500 m. Distance — 900 m. Technical equipment used:

• ice axes

RSFSR CHAMPIONSHIP in ALPINISM ICE-SNOW CLASS BELUKHA EASTERN 4506 m via North-West wall through icefalls first ascent SAYANOGORSK 1986 Addresses:

1. Krasnoyarsk Krai Saynogorsk

1. Climbing type — snow-ice
2. Climbing area, ridge — Altai, Katunskie Belki ridge, Ak-Kem valley
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Belukha Vostochnaya, 4506 m, via icefalls of the North-West wall
4. Difficulty category — approximately 50, first ascent
5. Main characteristics of the route: height difference — 1506 m, length — 2033 m, average steepness — 57°, length of sections with 5–6 diff. cat. — 543 m
6. Pitons hammered: rock — 10, ice — 95, no screw-in pitons, placed protection — 8
7. Moving hours — 13 h

RUSSIAN ALPINISM CHAMPIONSHIPS. ICE-SNOW CLASS

Report

on the first ascent to Belukha (3), 4400 m via the direttissima of the northern wall by the team from Altai Krai Sports Committee. Coaches:

• Plotnikov I.A. — Master of Sports of International Class
• Kuznetsov N.A. — Candidate Master of Sports 1996

Passport

1. Ice-snow class

The route passes through the part of the Ak-Kem wall visible from Lake Ak-Kem, with an exit to the Western plateau. The route begins from the left upper cirque of the Ak-Kem glacier at an altitude of 3100 m. Section R0–R1. Snow slope. Section R1–R2. Bergschrund 4 m. Insurance through an ice axe. Section R2–R3. Firn slope under a hanging glacier. Section R3–R4. Tongue of a hanging glacier. Ice is hard. Section R4–R5. Snow cushion of a hanging glacier with ice islands. Section R5–R6. Firn bergschrund. Section R6–R2. Belt of ice-filled rocks. Steepness 45–50°. Section R7–R8. Icy rock belt 65°. Section R8–R9. Ice slope with rock islands.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area: Terskey Ala-Too ridge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: p. Albatros Zap. (4700), via the spur on the N wall
4. Estimated difficulty category: 4B
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 600 m, length of sections with 5th cat. diff. — 180 m, average steepness — 60°, number of rock pitons hammered — 35, number of placements — 14, number of ice screws — 18
6. Number of travel hours: 15
7. One overnight stay — on the moraine of Djigit glacier
8. Team composition:

Ascent Certificate

1. Category of high-altitude ascents.
2. North-western Pamir. Northern spur of the Academy of Sciences Range.
3. Peak Korzhenevskaya. Height 7105 m. Via the South-Eastern slope. Route is combined.
4. Route category 5B.
5. Height difference 2925 m.
6. Pitons used: rock 16, ice 50. Number of placed protection elements: 12.
7. Total climbing time: 18 h 30 min.
8. One bivouac was made on the route. The bivouac site was carved into the snow and ice ridge. The bivouac was comfortable and met safety requirements.