PASSPORT

1. Rock class.
2. Western Sayan, Borus ridge.
3. g. Borus Zapadny, 2250 m, along the slope category.
4. Proposed category 3A, first ascent.
5. Height difference: 320 m, length: 650 m, Average slope of the main part of the route 42°.
6. Pitons hammered: | rock | chocks | | :--- | :----- | | 20 | 7 |

6.2 Western Sayan Golova, 1970 m, 5A, via center of SW wall Prokofiev D.E. August 10, 2013

Ascent Passport

1. Region — Sayan Mountains, Western Sayan
2. Summit — Golova, 1970 m, via center of SW wall. 5A.
3. Proposed — 5A category of difficulty, first ascent.
4. Route type — rock
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 350 m. route length — 445 m. length of sections 6 cat. diff. — 100 m. length of sections 4 cat. diff. — 345 m. average steepness

Peak Koshurnikova

Approximately category 2A complexity via the spur of the eastern ridge. 45 minutes from the base camp. The start of the route is a steep rock wall (75–80°). Difficult climbing, pitons, 30 m. Further, heavily snowed rock at 45–50°. (In the period from March to May, there is a lot of flow ice) Movement in rope teams, alternating, 200 m. Further, on the left side of a vaguely defined ridge, along destroyed rocks with simultaneous belay. Then along the wide eastern ridge to the summit. Descent along the eastern ridge. Time to complete the route is 3.5 hours. Required equipment for 6 people:

• Main rope 40 m — 3 lengths.
• Rock pitons — 4 pcs.
• Hammers — 2 pcs.

Ascent Log

1. Area – Western Sayan, Borus Ridge, p. 6.2
2. Peak – Koschurnikova, 2300 m, via the Central North-Eastern slope through "Monkado"
3. Category – 3A cat. diff. – first ascent
4. Route Type – Rock climbing
5. Route Description: elevation gain – 650 m, total route length – 1195 m, wall section length before reaching the counterfort – 365 m, section lengths:

Climbing passport.

1. Climbing category — technical.
2. Climbing area — Sayany.
3. Summit, its height, ascent route — unnamed, 2300 m, South-Eastern ridge.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 2B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 500 m, average steepness — 35°.
6. Pitons driven for belay: rock — 5, ice — , bolt — .
7. Number of travel hours — 5.

Passport

Protocol No. 12 dated 23.01.1996, item 8. 45th SK.

1. Rock class.
2. Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge.
3. Ptitsa Peak, 2220 m, S ridge.
4. Proposed category 4B, first ascent.
5. Elevation difference: 330 meters; length 430 meters; length of category 5 section 85 meters. Average steepness of the route 56°.

Ascent Passport

1. Area: Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge, 6.2.
2. Peak: Ptitsa 2221 m. Centre of the SE wall
3. Claimed: 4B cat. sl. First ascent
4. Route character: Rock
5. Route characteristics:
   • Route elevation gain: 441 m
   • Route length: 550 m
   • Length of sections: II–III — 270 m, IV — 150 m, V — 130 m
   • Average steepness of the entire route: 56°

Route Description

Peak Aristova, named after one of the first Soviet climbers — Oleg Aristov, — is a rocky tooth and towers rising above the lateral ridge, which branches off from the Malo-Almatinsky spur at the location of the Karlytau peak. From there, the ridge stretches east-southeast for about 4 km, dividing the lateral valleys of the glaciers:

• Aristova
• Byrdzhiga. The initial bivouac is on the Aristova glacier plateau. The exit to the route should be no later than four hours, on a slope with a steepness of 55–60°. The ascent goes straight, a little south of a small group of rocks descending from the summit ridge. Deep snow cover:
• Creates convenience for ascending on beaten steps with insurance through an ice axe.
• Is avalanche-prone.

Ascent from the southwest, route 1Б cat. difficulty

From Zelyonaya polyana further along the moraine to the confluence of two streams flowing from the Shokalsky Glacier. Here it is convenient to cross to the left bank. Then to the tongue of the Severny TEU glacier. Here on the moraine by the lake is also a convenient place to spend the night. Height 3500 m. From the camp to this overnight stay 4–5 hours walking. The ascent begins along a wide couloir with a slope of up to 35°, covered with small scree. After an hour and a half of ascent, the couloir narrows and turns east, leading to a false summit. Further - along the ridge with many gendarmes. Insurance is alternate. Gendarmes are bypassed on the right, and the last two are taken head-on. Along the ridge, reach the pre-summit couloirs. Cross two couloirs and ascend the third to the snowy ridge and along it to the clearly defined summit. Descent is by the ascent route.

Recommendations for climbers

1. Number of participants - no more than 25 people.
2. Initial bivouac - on Zelyonaya polyana or by the lake on the Severny TEU glacier.
3. Departure from the initial bivouac at 5 and 6 am respectively.
4. Special equipment for a group of 4 people: a) main ropes 2 × 30 m; b) rock pitons 2 pcs.; c) carabiners 2 pcs.; d) hammers 2 pcs.

2. Traverse of Sulakhat summit from north to south — 2A cat. diff. (see Fig. 7)

From the northern summit, left and down into the pass. Then along the ridge (insurance through ledges!) to the control cairn. From the cairn, descend to the right along the crevice to a shelf and along it (piton insurance!) to the next ridge saddle. Then along the ridge to a 30-meter wall. Descend along it to the ridge. From the ridge, descend to the right to a shelf and then along the ridge to the base of the South summit. Ascent to the South summit along the ridge. Descent from the South summit to the right along a gully (insurance!) to a shelf and along it to exit to a narrow snow patch in a couloir. Then along the couloir (insurance!) to a large snowfield and down it. Then exit left along grassy slopes and scree to a trail and along it to the bivouac. The route from bivouac to traverse and back to bivouac takes 8–9 hours.

Recommendations for climbers

1. Number of participants in a group — no more than 8 people.
2. Initial bivouac — lower Sulakhatskaya nochevka.
3. Departure time from bivouac — no later than 5:00.
4. Special equipment for a group of 4 people: a) main rope — 2×30 m; b) expendable cordelette — 2–3 m; c) rock pitons — 4; d) ice pitons — 3 (in the second half of summer); e) rock hammers — 2; f) carabiners — 8; g) crampons 4 pairs (in the second half of summer).
5. Possible bivouac locations on the North, Central summits and under the South summit.