Bashkhauz, S. Ridge

The approach to the SW — Bashkhauz cirque — is similar to the previous description. Go through the cirque under the slopes of the S. ridge and ascend to the MSTU pass — the last saddle on the S ridge. 3–4 hours from the hut. Along the snowy ridge with outcrops of destroyed rocks, simultaneously with belay on the protrusions, to the steep rocky ascent. Here:

• Traverse left 20 m.
• Then ascend up the snowy slope (at the beginning of the season), or along the destroyed rocks (attention! — rockfall hazard, possible ice) to the SE — shoulder of the ridge. Along the gentle ridge simultaneously to the summit. About 1 hour from the pass. The descent from the summit is along the SW ridge according to the previous description. Hazardous areas:
• on the Bezengi glacier — crevasses and rockfall hazard from the S slopes of the peak

Dumala-Tau (4680) via South Ridge — Cat. 4B

From the bivouac behind the moraine, the path goes up the grassy slopes and talus, bypassing the ridge descending from the Dumala-Tau massif, to the right of the icefall. The route along the South Ridge begins to the left of a slab with a crack and a small stream at its upper part, via an 80-meter snowy couloir upward to the right onto a destroyed saddle behind the slab, from where the stream flows. From the saddle, follow a ledge upward to the left. From the end of the ledge, ascend a rocky couloir to a balcony. Along the balcony to the left and through a 20-meter crack, make a ascent to the left edge of the South wall. Further:

• Exit onto the West wall
• Traverse it to the left to bypass the jagged part of the edge
• After 40–45 m, exit onto the edge above the large "perо" (fin-like rock formation)
• From the edge, make a 5–6 m traverse along a ledge to the left under a gully
• From the left side of the gully, ascend 5 m up the wall, then 40 m along easy rocks under a 25-meter wall, which is climbed in the center
• From the wall, make a 60–70 m traverse through a couloir to the left

Kyundyum-Mizhyrgi (4500 m) via W and N ridge

From the bivouac on the SW spur of Panoramny peak (3900) cross the glacier tributary, enter the cirque of Kyundyum-Mizhyrgi pass and approach the beginning of the ascent to the pass. From here, 120–150 m along the snow shelf to the right under the walls of Skalniy peak, 150 m up a gentle snow gully, then 80 m up an ice-rock gully (with protection on ledges on the left) to a snow shoulder on the 3rd spur from the main ridge. From the shoulder, down and then 80 m up a snowy-icy gully on the left to the saddle on the N ridge of the summit. 3–4 hours from the bivouac. Kyundyum-Mizhyrgi From the saddle, 40 m along a steep, sharp snow ridge, 150–170 m along a flattening snow slope, and another 120–150 m along a snow ridge with rock outcrops (beware of cornices) to the summit. 1–1.5 hours from the saddle. Descent via the ascent route takes 2.5–3 hours. Hazardous places: closed crevasses on the glacier; rockfall hazard and natty ice on the shelf; possible cornices on the N ridge. Special equipment: 4–5 rock pitons; 2–3 ice screws; crampons for all participants.

Lalver – Gestola, traverse, 3B cat. diff. The red dotted line is the ascent route. The blue dotted line indicates the 4A route. The black dotted line indicates a possible emergency descent option, the route is unclassified. Green labels — overnight stops.

• 4 — Chyornye Osypi bivouac.

1. Ascent to Gestola peak via Lalver

Gestola peak (4850 m) is located in the Main Caucasian Range, in the Bezingi Wall. Ascent to Gestola via Lalver is classified as 3B cat. diff.

Description of the ascent route to Peak Mira (4400 m) via the North Counterfort - Category III difficulty. The starting point of the route can be found in the description for Gerta-bashi peak from Ullu-Auz glacier via Category 1B route. From the overnight stay in the Trud pass hollow:

• to the base of the North Counterfort of Peak Mira;
• from the plateau through the bergschrund and 30-35 m up the ice-snow slope to the start of the rocks;
• 30-40 m up the cleft to exit onto the left side of the ridge;
• further, 30-35 m up rocks of moderate difficulty to reach the first rocky ascent;
• 25-30 m up the snowy ridge, bypassing the rocky headland on the right, and up the snowy slope to below the second rocky ascent;
• up rocks of moderate difficulty to reach the sharp snowy ridge, with rocky outcrops in its middle and end sections suitable for belaying;
• the snowy ridge gives way to a steep icy slope, with rocky outcrops on the left;

Fig. 16

a stream or a snowfield closing it and 500–600 m up along the grassy slopes and scree of the Western ridge of pik Semenovskogo. Further, a climb to the shoulder along simple rocks. From the shoulder, there is a 200–250-meter traverse with an ascent along the scree and simple rocks on the right side of the ridge (protection needed!); then 30–40 m left and up, an ascent to the ridge behind the gendarme. Along the 12–15-meter ridge and a 10-meter ledge on its left side, there is a descent into the gap. From the gap, 300–350 m up along simple rocks («loose stones!») and scree of the ridge or its left side, further, an ascent onto a snowy slope along the slabs and then an ascent to the top of pik Semenovskogo along it.

• From the left-bank moraine — 4–5 hours
• Descent along the ascent route to the moraine — 1.5–2 hours Recommendations for climbers

1. Number of participants — 4–20 people.
2. Initial bivouac — left-bank moraine of the Eastern branch of the Bezengi glacier.
3. Departure time — 5–6 am.
4. Equipment: main rope — 2×30 m; rock pitons — 2–3; rock hammer — 1; carabiners — 6–7; tent — 1.

Peak Semenovsky 4050 m via the South Ridge, Cat. 1B difficulty

From the Dzhangi-Kosh Hut, follow the trail down, cross over the S. spur of the 4050 peak, descend 150 m down the gully between the slope and the right-bank moraine, then head right and up along the mudflow and avalanche deposits along the W. slopes of the spur into the S. cirque of Peak Semenovsky — 4050 m, 1–1.5 hours from the hut. Cross the cirque to the left in its lower part and ascend via the fine reddish talus or outcrops of broken rocks onto the S. ridge. To the right of the ridge, move up with simultaneous belay on rock outcrops, crossing snowfields, to the pre-summit rise of the ridge. Traverse along a ledge to the right of the ridge into a snowy gully and up it for 150 m to the NE ridge (ice possible in the upper part of the gully; one can divert to the rocks on the right). Follow the NE ridge leftwards to the summit, 4–5 hours from the hut. Descent follows the ascent route — about 1.5 hours. Hazardous areas:

• ice possible on the ledges of the S. ridge
• ice possible in the pre-summit gully

Peak Semenovsky via the NE ridge, 2A

From the Dzhangi-Kosh hut, follow the trail down, cross over the S. spur of peak 4050, descend 150 m down the gully between the slope and the right-bank moraine, then head right and up along the mudflow and avalanche deposits along the W. slopes of the spur into the S. cirque of Peak Semenovsky — 4050, 1–1.5 h from the hut. Ascend via talus and snowfields to the NE edge of the cirque, under the couloir descending from peak 4050. Follow the snow-rock boundary (on the left) up the couloir (watch out for falling rocks on the right) to the saddle on the NE ridge, left of peak 4050. Along the rocky ridge with simultaneous belay on rock outcrops (caution: heavily deteriorated rocks) through a series of low "gendarmes", about 1 h. The last "gendarme" is bypassed on the right with piton belay. Then, along a wide snowy ridge with outcrops of deteriorated rocks — a gentle ascent to the summit, 5–6 h from the hut. Descent is via the S ridge, as described earlier. Hazardous places:

• Couloir — prone to rockfall
• Rocky terrain — heavily deteriorated
• Possible ice on the descent from the summit in the couloir and on ledges Special equipment — 3–4 rock pitons.

5. Ukyu via NE ridge, 3A

The movement to Ukyu Pass is as described in section 3. The pass point is between the final rocks of the SE ridge of Ukyu and a standalone rock (there is a small glacial lake under the rock). From the pass:

• down a steep talus couloir (caution! – rockfall hazard) to a rocky outcrop,
• then left down to the talus and to the glacier,
• down the gorge in the "pocket" between the glacier and the slope to the flattening of the North Ukyu glacier (landmark: on the opposite side is the beginning of the ascent to the May 9 pass on the NE ridge of Dumala peak). From here:
• left upwards, ascent on talus, broken rocks, and snowfields on the NE ridge of Ukyu to the control cairn. From the pass, it takes 1.5–2 hours. Upwards along the snowy ridge with steep ascents (ice is possible, piton protection). A rocky "gendarme" in the ridge is passed head-on. To the summit, it takes 4–5 hours.