5. Ukyu via NE ridge, 3A

The movement to Ukyu Pass is as described in section 3. The pass point is between the final rocks of the SE ridge of Ukyu and a standalone rock (there is a small glacial lake under the rock).

From the pass:

• down a steep talus couloir (caution! – rockfall hazard) to a rocky outcrop,
• then left down to the talus and to the glacier,
• down the gorge in the "pocket" between the glacier and the slope to the flattening of the North Ukyu glacier (landmark: on the opposite side is the beginning of the ascent to the May 9 pass on the NE ridge of Dumala peak).

From here:

• left upwards, ascent on talus, broken rocks, and snowfields on the NE ridge of Ukyu to the control cairn.

From the pass, it takes 1.5–2 hours.

Upwards along the snowy ridge with steep ascents (ice is possible, piton protection). A rocky "gendarme" in the ridge is passed head-on. To the summit, it takes 4–5 hours.

Descent along the SE ridge is as described in section 3 — 1.5–2 hours.

Special equipment:

• rock pitons 3–5 pcs.
• ice screws 3–4 pcs.
• crampons 1–2 pairs.