Report on the Ascent to the Summit of Ay-Petri Eastern via the Eastern Part of the Wall on the Route "Prazdnik Neposlushaniya" 6A Category of Complexity by the Team from Mukhalatka Settlement from 14:00 on March 14, 2020, to 17:00 on March 15, 2020

I. Ascent Passport

Parabola (second option), 4A (Kush-Kaya)

The approach to the route starts along the path to the "Classic," but you need to veer right immediately. Through the clearings where camps are usually set up, head right and up to the wall, from which ledges and wide cracks extend left and right. Stick to the well-trodden path. Follow the path, then left and up 30-40 m through simple rocks to reach a platform. Tie in here. R0-R1. Follow a logical crack upwards 40-50 m to the first tree. R1-R2. From here, head right through bushes to a ledge with a tree under the route. If the route is occupied, it's not worth continuing. Hazards:

• Rocks hit the entire lower part.
• There's an option to bypass to the right. It's less prone to rockfall, but in places, you have to climb through thickets. R2-R3-R4. From the platform, two yellow-colored cornices are clearly visible to the left at the top of the massif. From here, approach the rightmost upper tree on the platform. From the platform, climb up through slabs and corners to a tree where the crack ends. 10 m higher, there's a small face with old pitons at the top. R4-R5. From here, you need to move left into another crack. Up a vertical, steep crack - a corner:

Crimea. Kush-Kaya. First Ascent 2A "Krasny Ugol"

Alpinism. Written by Volikov, April 3, 2014, 0:18 We arrived in January in Crimea at the Kush-Kaya mountain massif with mountaineering objectives:

• to do some climbing;
• to gain guiding experience;
• to hone our skills with "iron". Actually, we came to celebrate the New Year, drink wine, and take a dip in the winter sea. Nothing out of the ordinary was expected. But... everything is available on Kush-Kaya, except for a 2A route. So, we started looking for another "double", and this is what came out of it.

Ascent Passport

1. Section number according to KMGV - 8.2.

Shaan-Kaya. "Grafika" Route

Published by Alpinist on May 21, 2018

Today, there is very little space left in the Crimean mountains for interesting and challenging lines. This is especially true for iconic peaks like Shaan-Kaya. Pioneering a new route in such a place is a very responsible task. By taking away the last untouched sections of the wall from future generations, it is essential to minimize our impact on the terrain. More than a year ago, while admiring the gray monolith between "Grishchenko Pravyy" and "Arsenal" on the right side of Shaan-Kaya, I noticed a thin, discontinuous crack crossing the wall diagonally. "It would be great to climb this smooth slab without using a drill." The idea seemed worthy but unrealistic. Still, I took a series of photos of the wall to study at home. Upon enlargement, the relief looked very poor. The crack was repeatedly interrupted, but it was still there. I decided to give it a try, but if I got stuck with extensive drilling, I would retreat. Despite being tired after the May championship, I was eager to start working on the route. The next day after the award ceremony, armed with an excessive amount of anchors, axes, skyhooks, and copperheads, we managed to tear ourselves away from the ground. On the first day, the weather allowed us to climb two pitches. On the second day, around 5:00 PM, we finished the route, fully realizing our idea. Throughout its length, the line is tied to the natural relief. There are no intermediate bolts. No holes were drilled for skyhooks either. The route has the following fixed equipment:

• 2 bolts on the second belay
• a pendulum bolt with a carabiner at the end of the third pitch The remaining belays are on natural protection.

Shaan-Kaya — 8. Hyperborea route (Yarechevsky Marunich)

In the mountains — climbing routes of Crimea The route passes through the right part of the South wall of Shaan-Kaya, in the upper part it goes left, to the center. A landmark can be a huge overhanging inner corner, visible even from the lower road. If you draw a line from the base of the corner, perpendicular to the foot, it will come to the start of the route. The route was started in the 1980s by Chaplyngsky and Samoded, but, having passed 150 m, they stopped (from this point it is possible to swing to the Grishchenko route). The route was completed by Vitaly Yarechevsky (Odessa) and Vladimir Marunich (Nikolaev). In 2000, they made a reconnaissance, passing the already passed section of the wall and strengthening the stations, and in November 2001 they completed the route, passing a 100-meter overhanging section, which, in my opinion, is the key one. The route was climbed with processing of the lower part and 2 overnight stays on the wall on a platform. The length of the route is 300 meters, of which overhanging sections are more than 200 meters, sometimes more than 100°. The complexity of climbing is VI+, ITO A3 (or more?). Some sections of ITO-climbing were passed by Vitaly Yarechevsky in free climbing, his assessment is F 6c–7a. The second ascent was made by Alexander Lav­ri­nen­ko (Odessa), Alexander Mak­si­me­nya (Minsk) in February 2002. On a sunny February day, Sasha Maksimenya and I approached Shaan-Kaya. My time in Crimea was coming to an end, and I wanted to climb something unusual. There are two such routes on Shaan-Kaya:

• Shel­kha­kov — Po­po­v, 2001
• Hyperborea

Shaan-Kaya — 7

Author: Kirill Gostev, Yalta Shaan-Kaya, "Pianissimo" route (6B extra F6b/6c, A4, 280 m) The struggle with the mountain is a struggle with oneself; if you're a hero, your path isn't simple!!! Everything started cheerfully and enthusiastically, but gradually the exclamations of "Hooray!!!" on the prolonged overhang turned into a state that fully corresponds to the name of the route — "Pianissimo", only occasionally did falling boulders with a loud thud stir our consciousness. In general, everything turned out great. Thanks to our support group:

• Sergey Voshchanov,
• Alexander Rushkovsky (our altitude operator),
• Evgeny Meshkov. "The Guardian of Secrets" and chronicler of Shaan-Kaya's history, Yuri Borisovich Burlakov, periodically visited the mountain to observe us. During rare meetings with him, he wished us success and infected us with the same enthusiasm and fervor that, probably, accompanied the first conquerors of Shaan-Kaya, led by Yuri Borisovich.

Shaan-Kaya — 6

Author: Alexander Lav­rin­enko, Odes­sa Alexander Lav­rin­enko Shaan-Kaya is located in the Alupka area. It is not part of the Southern ridge, but is pushed forward to the sea, in front of the Alupka wall. The wall height difference is about 250 m. In the central part, the wall overhangs. 6 routes are laid along the wall (Note: as of December 2001, 8 routes were climbed), all are 6th category of difficulty. To get to Shaan-Kaya, you need to:

• Get to the Alupka "Pit­om­nik" stop
• From it, go up the road

Tourist Encyclopedia

"Samurai", 6A, F6c, A3, 290 m (Shaan-Kaya)

Interpretation — "Samurai", 6A, F6c, A3, 290 m (Shaan-Kaya)

Tourist Encyclopedia

"Samurai", 6A, F6c, A3, 290 m (Shaan-Kaya)

At the beginning of the route, a drill has beaten out on the rock:

• 2001
• an arrow pointing up and slightly to the right. R0–R1: Three meters of climbing T1 — a large V-shaped hook in a live flake to the right and up. Two to three meters of a small ledge. There's a crack in it.

Author: Alexey Shelkhakov, Simferopol Scheduled cleaning of the "Samurai" route 6A, 6B, A3 On January 13, the team of Popov — Shelkhakov carried out a scheduled cleaning of their "Samurai" route (6B — A3) on the Shaan-Kaya massif, removing the pitons and poorly fixed temporary bolts left by other climbers. We also identified the points where our route intersects with the climbing route "Atlant-M" 8b, 250 m, which was completed in early autumn 2004 by the team led by A. Vedenmeer. Since we were unable to find a diagram of this route online, we had to determine the situation on site. The previously published photographs of Atlant-M did not indicate the neighboring routes, and accordingly, did not specify the points of intersection with the existing mountaineering routes on the massif. The inspection showed that Atlant-M intersects Samurai at an acute angle between R3–R4, which significantly reduces its difficulty. In its upper part, this route intersects Samurai again near the ledges, which is generally insignificant. On the final section, before reaching the plateau, it runs very close to it. In light of these circumstances, we decided to remove the bolts of the Atlant-M route that are located within the corridor of the Samurai route, but only those that reduce its difficulty — specifically, the section between R3–R4. We removed two bolts:

• One of them was driven 40 cm away from ours and can be replaced by it.
• Further, there is a crack suitable for pitons, where one can be fully and reliably secured, thus replacing the second removed bolt. This is the minimum of what was possible; Atlant-M remains passable. The diagrams of the routes provided by us may contain inaccuracies, but it's still better than nothing.

Shaan-Kaya. Grishchenko route (left), 6A

Shaan-Kaya. Grishchenko route (left) — climbed by Viktor Grishchenko's team (Kiev). Grishchenko route (left), 6A, started along the old, unfinished bolted track, continued on natural relief — straight up, along corners. SH­AAN-KA­YA. Routes lines A simpler variation:

• Up left, along the system of inner corners, to the top of a spall (intersection with «Krym 87»)
• Further up, to a slanting crack