Russian Alpinism Championship

High-altitude climbing category

Report on the ascent of the Krasnoyarsk Krai team to Peak Khan Tengri, 6995 m via the North Ridge, 5B category of difficulty

team captain team coaches

• V. A. Arkhipov
• N. N. Zakharov
• V. V. Balezin
• G. Krasnoyarsk 2005

Ascent Log

1. Tengri Tagh ridge.
2. Peak: Khan-Tengri, via the north ridge (Kuzmin).
3. Complexity category — 5B
4. Route type: combined.
5. Height difference — 2900 m. Distance — 5510 m. Length of sections with 5th cat. diff. — 200 m. Average slope:

• main part of the route — 42°
• entire route — 32°

6. Pitons left on the route: total — 8 pcs.

Passport

1. Altitude class
2. Tian-Shan, North Inylchek Glacier
3. Peak Khan-Tengri, via North Ridge
4. 55 km
5. Elevation gain — 2995 m, distance — 5560 m. Length of sections 5 km – 660 m. Average steepness of the route — 33°. Excluding the snow plateau (5900–6000 m) and the summit dome (6920–6995 m) — 50°.
6. Pitons hammered: | rock | nuts | ice screws | | :--: | :---: | :------: |

Climbing Report for the USSR Alpine Climbing Championship

1. Climbing category — High-altitude.
2. Climbing area — North Inylchek Glacier, Central Tien Shan.
3. Climbing route — North slope of Khan-Tengri 6995 m, Kuzmin's route, 6B category of difficulty.
4. Climbing characteristics:
   • Elevation gain — 3000 m
   • Average slope approximately 50°
   • Length of most challenging sections — 1300 m
5. Pitons used:
   • Rock pitons — 82