центру С стены
Route Description: центру С стены
SSummitMateReport on the first ascent of the north wall of "Svobodnoy Korei" peak (4740 m) in the Kyrgyz Ala-Too range, made by the SCA KSAVO team in 1975.
Class of Technical Ascensions
Report
on the first ascent in the Kyrgyz Ala-Too mountains (Western Tien-Shan) of the north wall of the "Free Korea" peak (4740 m), entered in the USSR Alpine Championship in the 1975 season Team of the Armed Forces of the USSR (SKA KSAVO) July 1975
| I. Popenko Yu.S. | CMS | captain |
|---|---|---|
| 2. Belovol E.V. | CMS | deputy captain |
| 3. Afanasyev V.M. | CMS | participant |
| 4. Kuramshin R.M. | CMS | participant |
Route Description: центру С стены
SSummitMate### Description of the third ascent of the 6B category difficulty route via the North Face of Svobodnaya Korea peak (4740 m) in Tian Shan.
ASCENT DOCUMENT 1576
- Ascent type: technical
- Ascent area, ridge: Tian Shan, Kyrgyz Ala-Too
- Peak, its height, ascent route: peak Svobodnaya Korea, 4740 m, via the North face
- Difficulty category: 6 (third ascent)
- Route characteristics: height difference — 1010 m; length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 995 m; average steepness — 78°
- Pitons hammered: for belaying: rock — 186; ice — 45; bolt — 2; for creating artificial anchors: rock — 12; ice — none; bolt — 7
- Number of climbing hours: 32 hours
Route Description: центру С стены
SSummitMateDescription of the passage of a 6A category difficulty route on the North Face of Pik Svobodnoy Korei (4740 m) in the Kyrgyz range of Tian Shan.
Ascent Passport
- Region — Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz Ala-Too Range
- Pik Svobodnoy Korei 4740 m, center of the North face (Yu. Popenko)
- 6A category of difficulty
- Route type — combined
- Route characteristics: Height difference (bergschrund 4100 m – summit 4740 m) — 640 m. Route length to the ridge — 870 m. Route length to the summit — 1070 m. Section lengths:
- 6 category of difficulty — 160 m
- 5 category of difficulty — 460 m. Average steepness to the ridge — 65°. Average steepness of the main part of the route (to the "roof") — 75°.
Route Description: центру С стены
SSummitMateDescription of the ascent made by a team of climbers to Peak Svobodnoy Korei (4740 m) via the center of the North Face in Tian Shan in 1991, category of difficulty 6A.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent class — technical
- Ascent region — Tian Shan, Kyrgyz Ala-Too ridge
- Pik Svobodnoy Korei, 4740 m, via the Center of the North Face
- Difficulty category — 6A
- Height difference — 740 m, length — 890 m, length of sections with 5th diff. cat. — 490 m, 6th diff. cat. — 330 m. Average steepness of the main part — 71°
- Pitons hammered:
- rock — 35/20
- bolt — 18/13
- chocks — 57/28
Description of a group climb via a Category 6B route on the North Face of Pik Svobodnoy Korei (4740 m) in Kyrgyz Ala-Too range.
I. Technical class. 2. Kirghiz Ala-Too, Ak-Sai gorge. 3. Peak Svobodnoy Korei, via North wall, 4740 m. 4. Difficulty category — 6B 5. Height difference: 795 m, length: 1047 m. Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category: 582 m. Average steepness of the route: 66°. Average steepness of the wall section: 75°. 6. Pitons driven:
- rock: 66/7
- bolt: 18/10*