С стене
Mixed5Б
Route Description: С стене
SSummitMateAscent record of Peak Luknitskogo (5800 m) via the North Face, category 6B, climbed in 1978 by a group of climbers led by L. Kensnitskiy.
Climbing Passport
- Climbing category — technical
- Climbing region — South-West Pamir
- Peak, its height, ascent route — Luknitskogo Peak 5800 m, North face
- Difficulty category — 6B
- Route characteristics
- Height difference 1630 m, average steepness 70°. Length of sections: 3rd difficulty category — 190 m, 4th difficulty category — 330 m, 5th difficulty category — 600 m, 6th difficulty category — 400 m
- Pitons hammered: for belaying — 151; for creating intermediate belay anchors: rock — 20, ice — 3.
- Number of climbing hours — 73
- Number of bivouacs and their characteristics — 2 bivouacs
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Route Description: С стене
SSummitMateAscent to Peak Luknitskogo 5800 m via the North wall, 6th category of difficulty, a route of 1630 m in length with an altitude difference and slopes up to 70°.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent class — technical
- Ascent area — South-West Pamir
- Peak; its height, ascent route — Peak Luknitskogo 5800 m, North face
- Proposed complexity category — 6B
- Route characteristics: height difference 1630 m, avg. slope 70°, section lengths:
- 3rd diff. cat. — 190 m
- 4th diff. cat. — 330 m
- 5th diff. cat. — 620 m
- 6th diff. cat. — 400 m
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Route Description: С стене
SSummitMateDescription of the ascent route to Peak Lukinitskiy (5800 m) via the North face, rated as category 6B difficulty, Pamir, Pakhdara Range.
Ascent Log
- Ascent category: high-altitude technical.
- Ascent area: Pamir, Shakhdarin Range.
- Peak, its height, ascent route: Peak Luknitskogo, 5800 m via the North face.
- Estimated category: 6B.
- Route characteristics: height difference — 1300 m, length of sections with 5th cat. difficulty — 770 m, 6th cat. difficulty — 310 m, average steepness 68°.
- Pitons used: for belaying — 275 rock, 8 ice; for creating artificial anchors — 16 rock.
- Total climbing hours: 37.
- Number of bivouacs and their characteristics: 3 bivouacs: #1 — on the wall, semi-reclining, uncomfortable; #2 — on the wall, reclining; #3 — on the summit, reclining.
- Surname, name, patronymic of the leader, participants, their qualification:
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Route Description: С стене
SSummitMateAscent of Peak Luknitskogo (5800 m) via the North wall, cat. 6B on the Pamir in 1978.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent class — high-altitude technical.
- Ascent area, ridge — South-West Pamir, Shakhdarin.
- Peak, its height, route — Pik Luknitskogo, 5800 m, ascent via the North face.
- Proposed difficulty category — 6B.
- Route characteristics: height difference — 1600 m, average steepness — 70°, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 1040 m.
- Pitons driven: for belaying for creating ITO rock 140 pcs., ice 3 pcs., bolted — —
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