Climbing Passport
- Climbing category — technical
- Climbing region — South-West Pamir
- Peak, its height, ascent route — Luknitskogo Peak 5800 m, North face
- Difficulty category — 6B
- Route characteristics
- Height difference 1630 m, average steepness 70°. Length of sections: 3rd difficulty category — 190 m, 4th difficulty category — 330 m, 5th difficulty category — 600 m, 6th difficulty category — 400 m
- Pitons hammered: for belaying — 151; for creating intermediate belay anchors: rock — 20, ice — 3.
- Number of climbing hours — 73
- Number of bivouacs and their characteristics — 2 bivouacs
- Surname, name, patronymic of the leader, participants and their qualification:
- Beresnev Valery Prokhorovich — CMS, instructor
- Moldovanov Alexander Anatolyevich — CMS, instructor
- Volynsky Viktor Alexandrovich — MS, instructor
- Kulamin Vladimir Romanovich — CMS, instructor
- Sentsov Sergey Konstantinovich — CMS, — " —
- Kruglenko Alexander Vasilyevich — CMS, — " —
- Team coach: KENSITSKY Leopold Vsevolodovich
- Date of departure on the route and return: July 24–27, 1978
On July 24, 1977, at 3:00, they approached the foot of the wall.
R0–R1. The route starts up the wall with a steepness of 80°. Exit to a diagonal ledge and along it towards the couloir. It is recommended to start in the 3–4 am hours. Risk of rockfall.
R1–R2. The couloir is crossed to the left towards a ridge. Risk of rockfall.
R2–R3. Along the ridge in the direction of a sheer chimney.
R3–R4. From the upper part of the ridge, firn.
R4–R5. Exit under a bastion via a chimney.
R5–R6. Along a snow-covered ridge with rock outcrops under the wall.
R6–R7. Ascend the wall upwards to the right along a narrow ledge.
R7–R8. The ledge turns into a narrow vertical crack with overhanging rock sections.
R8–R9. Then upwards to the right along wet slabs under a destroyed wall.
R9–R10. Up the wall 80 m to a ridge of a counterfort. Bivouac. Normal conditions.
R10–R11. Along the counterfort, sections of snow near rocks alternate with individual 2–3 meter climbs. Direction — towards the monolithic wall of the second bastion.
R11–R12. Up the wall of the bastion 40 m to a ridge.
R12–R13. Along a snow-covered ridge 50 m.
R13–R14. The ridge turns into a wall with an overhanging section.
R14–R15. Along the inner corner of the wall under a chimney, closed by a cornice.
Route Characteristics Table
| Date | Designation | Average steepness in degrees | Length in meters | Terrain characteristics | Difficulty | Condition | Weather conditions | rock | ice | bolted |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| July 24, 1978 | R0–R1 | 80 | 60 | Diagonal ledge, inner corner, cracks | V | destroyed by rockfall | clear | 13/2 | ||
| R1–R2 | 60 | 80 | Couloir | IV | monolithic, icy, rockfall | 8 | ||||
| R2–R3 | 70 | 90 | Ridge | V | destroyed by rockfall | clear | 10 | |||
| R3–R4 | 45 | 80 | ridge, firn | III | icy | |||||
| R4–R5 | 90 | 40 | inner corner, chimney, cornice | VI | monolithic, icy, water flows during the day | 6/1 | 2 | |||
| R5–R6 | 45 | 60 | ridge, firn, snow, rock outcrops | III | icy | clear | 2 | |||
| R6–R7 | 90 | 80 | wall, inner corner, cracks | V | monolithic, icy | 9/5 | 2 | |||
| R7–R8 | 90 | 50 | crack, system of cracks | VI | monolithic, icy, icicles, overhanging rocks, ice | 7/1 | 2/3 | |||
| R8–R9 | 60 | 40 | slabs, ridge | IV | destroyed, icy, rockfall | 4 | ||||
| R9–R10 | 70 | 80 | ridge, slabs | V | destroyed, slabs, rockfall | 8 | 2/2 |
Bivouac normal. Departure at 3:00. Stopped for a bivouac at 18:00. Number of climbing hours — 15.
| Date | Designation | Average steepness in degrees | Length in meters | Terrain characteristics | Difficulty | Condition | Weather conditions | rock | ice | bolted |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| July 25, 1978 | R10–R11 | 55 | 170 | Ridge | III–IV | Snow-covered, destroyed rocks | Cloudy | 4 | ||
| R11–R12 | 75 | 40 | Gendarme | V | Destroyed, icy | 5 | ||||
| R12–R13 | 45 | 50 | Ridge | III | Snow-covered | |||||
| R13–R14 | 75 | 90 | Ridge turning into a wall | V | Destroyed, overhanging section 3 m | 8 | ||||
| R14–R15 | 80 | 60 | Wall, inner corner | VI | Monolithic | 8/2 | 1 | |||
| R15–R16 | 85 | 50 | Chimney, cornice | VI | Monolithic | 7 | ||||
| July 26, 1978 | R16–R17 | 90 | 80 | Crack, inner corner, cornice | VI | Monolithic | 8/4 | |||
| R17–R18 | 90 | 40 | Crack, inner corner | VI | Destroyed rocks, rockfall | 6/3 | ||||
| R18–R19 | 60 | 60 | Outer corner | IV | Ice coating | Clear, cloudy | 4 | |||
| R19–R20 | 70 | 140 | Slabs, tile-like structure | V | "Live" stones, ice coating | 22 | ||||
| R20–R21 | 70 | 60 | Slabs, overhanging sections 3–5 m | V | Ice coating, destroyed rockfall | Clear | 8 | |||
| R21–R22 | 80 | 60 | Inner corner, cork, overhanging blocks in the upper part | V | Destroyed, blocky | 10 | ||||
| R22–R23 | 40 | 70 | Ridge, firn, snow slope | III | Dense snow, firn |
Bivouac normal. Departure at 8:00. Stopped for a bivouac at 18:00. Climbing hours — 10.
Reached the summit at 16:00. Climbing hours — 8.
R15–R16. Up the chimney towards a cornice — the cornice is bypassed along steep, up to 100°, rocks. Exit to a ledge. Bivouac normal.
R16–R17. From the bivouac, up a crack that leads to an inner corner, ending in a cornice.
R17–R18. After the cornice, the crack continues. Passed with intermediate belay anchors.
R18–R19. Exit to a ledge. From the ledge, an outer corner begins and along it — towards slabs.
R19–R20. The slabs have a tile-like structure.
R20–R21. Complex climbing due to many "live" stones.
R21–R22. The slabs turn into a wall. Along the inner corner of the wall, exit to the pre-summit ridge.
R22–R23. Along a snowy slope, exit to the summit. Descent via the saddle between Luknitskogo Peak and Peak 5891 onto Luknitskogo Glacier and further to the base camp.