Alpinism and Rock Climbing Federation

of Arkhangelsk Region

Russian Championship in Alpinism

Technical and High-Altitude Class

Report

On the ascent of the team from Arkhangelsk Region and Tatarstan Republic to the summit of Erydag Northwest, 3887 m, via the cornices of the central part of the right bastion of the NW wall, following Shanovazov's route, 2005, category 6B Leader: Dmitry A. Rybalchenko Participants:

• Mikhail A. Veshchagin
• Rasim G. Kashapov

Stavropol Regional Federation of Alpinism

Report

on the passage of the climbing route category 6B on v. Erydag "through the ledges of the center to the right of the bastion of the NW wall", made within the framework of the Russian Championship in Alpinism high-altitude and technical class (fifth passage of the route)

Passport of Ascent

1. Region, gorge, section number according to the classification table 2013:
2. Caucasus. 2.10. Mountains of Dagestan (from v. Shaviklade to v. Bazardyuzyu)
3. Name of the summit, its height, name of the route: v. Erydag, height of the summit 3887, name of the route – through the ledges of the center to the right of the bastion of the NW wall (route No. 48g of section 2.10. according to the classification table 2013).
4. Category of complexity 6B.

The area — Caucasus, Dagestan mountains. The peak — Eridag (NW) 3887 m via the cornices of the central part of the right bastion of the NW wall. It is proposed — 6B cat. dif., second ascent. The nature of the route — rock.

Characteristics of the route:

The height difference of the route — 1167 m. The height difference of the wall section — 1030 m. The length of the route — 3025 m. The length of the wall section (excluding the length of the traverse along the ledges of the summit tower) — 1175 m. The average steepness of the route — 64°. The average steepness of the wall — 75°. The average steepness of the bastion — 80°. The length of sections of 6 cat. dif. — 700 m, 5 cat. dif. — 200 m.

Left on the route:

Rock hooks — 0, anchor hooks — 3, piton hooks (8 mm) — 1, chock stones — 0. Hooks used on the route:

• stationary pitons — 10
• removable pitons — 25 (8 mm). Total protection used — 228, including skyhooks — 143. Number of climbing hours — 51, days — 4. Number of nights — 3. Team leader — Klenov Alexander Valerievich, HMS.

Ascent Passport

1. Region 2.10, Caucasus, Dagestan Mountains, Chekhychay gorge.
2. Erydag (NW), 3887 m, via the ledges of the central part of the right bastion of the NW wall.
3. Proposed — 6B cat. diff., first ascent.
4. The route is rock climbing.
5. Height difference of the route 1167 m, route length 3025 m, wall height difference 1030 m, average wall slope 75°, average bastion slope 80°, length of the wall part of the route (excluding the traverse along the ledges of the summit tower) 1175 m, length of sections with 5th category difficulty – 200 m, passed on aid climbing (conditionally 6B cat. diff.) – 700 m, including difficulty A1 – 150 m, A2 – 500 m, A3 – 50 m.
6. Left on the route:
   • rock pitons — 5
   • bolt pitons (removable) — 7
   • "spit" sleeves (12 mm) — 9

2005 Russian Mountaineering Championship. Technical Ascents Class

Report

On the first ascent by the team of the Dagestan Alpine Federation (combined team of the Southern Regional Rescue Squad of the Russian Emergency Ministry) on Erydag (NW), 3887 m via the cornices of the central part of the right bastion of the NW wall, category 6B.

Addresses

354003, Krasnodar Krai, Sochi, 151-a Plastunskaya St., Southern Regional Rescue Squad of the Russian Emergency Ministry, tel.: (8622) 68-03-03, 68-02-02 367015, Republic of Dagestan, Makhachkala, 17 Erliha St., Dagestan Rescue Squad of the Russian Emergency Ministry Tel./fax: (8722) 67-23-75 Photo of the wall profile from the right, at 3300 m, from K. Dorro's route, February 2000.