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SummitMateSSummitMate
May 8, 2025
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Report on the ascent by the "Rodina" sports club team to the summit of Ulu-Tau via the North Wall, category 5B difficulty level, in winter conditions.

1991 RSFSR Alpine Championship. Winter Ascension Class 135

Report

Report on the ascent to Ullu-Tau peak (Main) 4207 m via the north wall, category 5B, Abalakov's route '51. 2.4.1.132 KTMGV Team from "Rodina" Sports Club of the Kirov Regional Committee for Physical Culture and Sports. Team Leader Coach Shabalin P.E. Mashkovtsev V.I. "Rodina" Sports Club: 610006, Kirov, Lepsye St., 4A, ph. 30310, 36592

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Description of a winter ascent category 5B to the summit of Ullu-Tau Main via the North wall, made by a team of five people on February 7, 1994.

PASSPORT

I. CLIMB CLASS – winter 2. CLIMBING AREA – Central Caucasus 3. PEAK – ULLU-TAU Main, route via the North face, combined (V. Abalakov) 4. DIFFICULTY CATEGORY – 5B 5. ELEVATION GAIN – 1000 m 6. LENGTH OF 5-6 difficulty sections – 450 m 7. AVERAGE SLOPE OF THE ROUTE – 57° 8. PITS DRIVEN ON ASCENT: rock belay devices pitons ice screws

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Passport and description of a 5B category route through the North face of Ullutau Glavnaya peak in Central Caucasus.

Ascent Passport.

  1. Region: Central Caucasus, Adyrsu gorge, Main Caucasus Range, section according to KMGV – 2.4.1
  2. Peak Ullutau Glavnaya, 4207 m, via the North face (route by V. Abalakov).
  3. Complexity category: 5B.
  4. Route type: combined.
  5. Route elevation gain: (from "Abalakov's" bivouacs at the start of the route to the summit) — 700 m (approx.). Route length – 1000 m. Length of sections with V difficulty category – 180 m, VI difficulty category – 40 m. Average steepness:
    • key sections — 80°;
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