Traverse

of the Amanauz and Sofrudju massif with ascent to Dvuzubka via the East wall 6A Team of the Moscow City Council of the DSO "Spartak" Coach and team leader - Master of Sports of the USSR Kavunenko V.D. Moscow 1964

Brief geographical and sporting characteristics of Dvuzubka peak

Dvuzubka peak is located in the mountainous part of the Karachay-Cherkess Autonomous Region of Stavropol Krai. To the east of the Sofrudju snow dome, a sharp decline begins towards the Amanauz Pass saddle, then the ridge rises by more than 250 m, forming a huge three-peak massif:

• Main Amanauz

REPORT

on the ascent of Mt. Amanaus via the Main route on the East wall (“Dvuzubka”, control and evaluation route by Kavunenko, category 5B), made by the instructors of “Alibek” alpine camp Sorokin A.G. and Akhtyrsky O.A. from August 1 to 4, 1977.

Explanations for the table

The table of main characteristics shows the indicators of the route taken from August 1 to 4, 1977. Leaving the bivouac under the wall on August 1, 1977 at 8:00, the group started moving along the route without prior processing. After the preceding bad weather, the passage of the beginning of the route was difficult due to:

• fresh snow on the rocks;
• flow ice. The wall is lit by the sun from 6:00 to 12:00 and by the end of this time it is practically clear of fresh snow. For insurance and creation of belays, 8 piton hooks hammered in by previously passing groups were used. The group did not hammer in their own pitons, and they consider bending the lugs of the pitons to be impractical. The following groups will have to hammer them in approximately the same places, which will slightly complicate their passage, but will lead to cluttering of the route.

REPORT

On the ascent to the summit of Amanauz Glavny via the Eastern wall (Dvuzubka, the control and test route by Kavunenko, category 5B) carried out by the instructors at "Alibek" alpine camp consisting of:

• Kovalevsky V.A.,
• Andryushchenko A.V.,
• Bashtinsky A.I. from August 2, 1977, to August 4, 1977.

EXPLANATIONS FOR THE TABLE

R0–R1: start of the route. 0.5 rope length along the smoothed wet rocks of the black slab.

• R1–R2: 1.5 rope lengths ascent to a ledge, traverse left along it, and exit to a spalled rock.
• R2–R3: 0.5 rope length complex climbing, slab-like smoothed rocks, artificial technical means (И.Т.О.), exit into an internal corner. R3–R4: 1.5 rope lengths along the internal corner to the "grotto". Rocks are like "ram's foreheads". Rockfall hazard!

ASCENT LOG

1. Ascent category — technical.
2. Region of ascent — Caucasus, Dombay.
3. Ascent to the summit Amanauz (Dvuzubka) via the east wall 3600 m, category 6A. Kavunenko Route.
4. Height difference of the wall section is 695 m. Total route length is 804 m. Length of sections with category 6 difficulty is 135 m.
5. Average steepness of the wall section is 62°.
6. Number of pitons driven: | Rock | Ice | Bolt | Chocks | | :--- | :--- | :---- | :------ | | 21+7 | 0 | 25 | 120 |