9 171

PASSPORT

1. Category — first ascent.
2. Altai, Severo-Chuysky ridge, Karakabak gorge.
3. V. Geodezicheskaya via the northern ridge.
4. Proposed category: 3A (first ascent).
5. Height 3529 m, elevation gain 480 m, length 950 m, average slope 32°.
6. Climbing time 12 hours (from camp to camp).
7. Overnight stay — not required.
8. Equipment — 8 ice screws.

1.2. ASCENT REPORT. Region — Altai. Peak — Pik 2000-letiya khristianstva, approximately 3500 m. Route — Combined. Expected category of difficulty — 2B. Height difference — 800 m. Distance — 1200 m. Average slope — 30°. Technical equipment used — ice screws, crampons, ice axes. Climbing hours — 8–9 hours from the bivouac.

168

PASSPORT

1. Class — first ascent.
2. Altai, Severo-Chuysky Ridge, Karakabak gorge.
3. V. Achkasova via the north ridge.
4. Proposed 3B cat. dif. (first ascent).
5. Height 3696 m, height difference 680 m, length 1230 m, average slope 33°.
6. Pitons — 6 cams, 8 ice screws.
7. Climbing hours 18 (from camp to camp).
8. Recommended to camp on the glacier at the start of the route.

в. АКТРУ, east wall, 4A cat. dif. (according to the report on the first ascent, Tsybkin L.P., July 1959) Approach from GMS Aktru through the Uчитель pass to the Kuрумду gorge. Crossing the Kuрумду icefall:

• Crossed from the right along the edge of the rocks в. Kuрумду in teams.
• Time to cross the icefall — 1 h. Overnight stay on the scree under the wall в. Актру. Time from GMS Aktru to the overnight stay — 7 h. The route to the summit goes along the rocky ridge, divided by snow and ice sections into five rocky islands. The height of the wall — 800 m.

Peak Aktru, via the East ridge from Bolshoy Aktru glacier, cat. III

From the camp... From the moraine lake, move along the edge of the Bolshoy Aktru glacier along the slopes of Stazerov Peak. The glacier is heavily crevassed, so move in rope teams until the couloir between Stazerov Peak and the large gendarme on the East ridge of Aktru Peak. Climb the couloir through the ruined rocks on the left-hand side of the couloir and reach the lowest point of the East ridge (2–2.5 hours). Follow the easy ridge to the large gendarme (control cairn) and continue in the direction of the summit until the pre-summit rise. The snowy-icy rise is the key section of the route (time 2–2.5 hours). Before the snowy-icy rise, there is a gendarme with a 5-meter rock wall (set up belay). The snowy-icy ridge goes up like a sickle. Move along the left part of the ridge. In the lower part, there is snow on the ridge, which

Ascent Record

1. Altai, Aktru gorge, section 1.
2. Aktru peak, 4044 m, via the South slope.
3. Proposed category: 2B, first ascent.
4. Route type: combined.
5. Elevation gain: 500 m, distance: 700 m, average steepness of the main part: 45°.
6. Pitons used: 2 rock, 2 ice.
7. Team's total climbing hours: 5 hours.
8. Leader: Afanasiev A.E., Candidate Master of Sports. Team members: Shakleev V.I., Candidate Master of Sports, Morozov V.V., Candidate Master of Sports.