Fann Mountains

Mountain range4,844.98 km²
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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First ascent of the Gardish peak (4,590 m) via the North Face in the Fann Mountains, category 5B, made in 1978 by a group of climbers led by Timur Muidzhi.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class — technical.
  2. Ascent area, ridge — Fann Mountains, Zarafshan Ridge.
  3. Peak, its height, ascent route: peak Gardish, 4590 m, via the northern wall, first ascent.
  4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B.
  5. Route characteristics: length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 1000 m, height difference — 1230 m, average steepness — 63°.
  6. Pitons driven:
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Description of the first ascent via the right part of the northern wall of Dukdon Glavny peak (5080 m) in Pamir-Alay, with a difficulty level of 5B.

Ascent Passport

  1. Climbing category — technical.
  2. Climbing area, ridge — Pamir-Alay, Zeravshan.
  3. Peak, its height, ascent route —
    • Dukdon Glavny, 5080 m, right part of the northern wall, first ascent.
  4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B.
  5. Route characteristics:
    • height difference — 1330 m,
    • length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 704 m,
    • average steepness — 72°.
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Ascent to the summit of Dukdon (5200 m) in the Fann Mountains via a category 5B route, with a detailed description of the path and technical details.

Dukdon — Central Peak, category 5B difficulty

Route Map

Description of the Ascent to Dukdon Peak, category 5B difficulty

The Dukdon peak, with an elevation of 5200 m, is located in the Fann Mountains of the Pamiro-Alay region. The Fann Mountains are characterized by fault-block structures without pronounced foldings. The main Zeravshan ridge lies aside. The Dukdon massif stretches approximately 15 km in a latitudinal direction and includes several peaks above 5000 m. The group targeted the central peak from which a southern spur branches off, transitioning into a parallel ridge. The approach to Dukdon begins from the village of Dji-Djik, where the motorable road ends. The route continues:

  1. Along the Iskander-Darya River (3 hours).
  2. Around Iskander-Kul Lake (1 hour).
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The Aisakhan (Dukdon) massif traverse route, first ascent 1970, 14 days, 6.5 km, 244 rock pitons.

Central Council “Zenit”

Traverse of Dukdon Massif (first ascent)

N 418, October 13, 1970 5B

Team Captain Moiseev Yu. Team Coach Baskin S.

  1. Simonik A. G.
  2. Druy M. G.
  3. Pisarev K. L.
  4. Solodkov Yu. K.
  5. Kopenningene L.
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