Central Greater Himalaya

Mountain range109,208.28 km²
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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Report on the expedition of the State Sports Committee of the Kazakh SSR to the summit of Dhaulagiri (8167 m) via the West Face in 1991.

QUESTIONNAIRE about the work of the expedition of the State Sports Committee of the Kazakh SSR to the Dhaulagiri summit

  1. Name of the summit, its height, route Dhaulagiri, 8167 m, West wall (indicate – first ascent, variation, which one on the route) difficulty category – 6B
  2. Dates Departure from Moscow on March 8, 1991; arrival in Moscow on June 2, 1991. Date of the base camp establishment: April 2, 1991.
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Report on the ascent of Dhaulagiri I (8167 m) via the Northeast Ridge, category 5B difficulty, with details on tactics and technical description of the route.

Climbing Passport

  1. High-altitude technical class.
  2. Himalayas.
  3. Dhaulagiri I — 8167 m, via the Northeast Ridge.
  4. Proposed category — 5B.
  5. Elevation gain — 3400 m (by altimeter); length — 7100 m. Length of sections with 5th category difficulty — 2500 m; Average steepness:
    • main part of the route — 35°
    • entire route — 30°.
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Route guide to Dhaulagiri via North-East Ridge, category 5B, climbed by a team led by E. Vinogradsky in 2005.

PASSPORT

  1. Himalayas
  2. Dhaulagiri, via the Northeast ridge
  3. Proposed category of difficulty is 5B (for a group). Category 5A.
  4. Route type — combined
  5. Route elevation gain — 3510 m Route length — 7100 m. Length of sections with category V difficulty — 1020 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 45°. Average steepness of the entire route — 37°.
  6. No pitons were used.
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First ascent via the center of the West Face of Baruntse (7220 m) in the Himalayas by a team from the Sverdlovsk Regional Sports Committee in 1995, route category 6B.

Passport

  1. High-altitude category.
  2. Central Himalayas, Southern spur of the Main Himalayan Range between Lhotse and Makalu.
  3. Peak Baruntse via the center of the Western wall (7220 m).
  4. 6B category of difficulty, first ascent.
  5. Elevation gain: 1320 m, wall length to the ridge — 1385 m, ridge length — 300 m. Length of sections with 6A–6B category of difficulty — 735 m. Average slope of the route — 55°. Average slope of the wall section (bergschrund to South Summit) — 61° (5900–7100 m).
  6. Used previously driven pitons and not removed — 0. | Rock | Chocks | Ice | Snow | | :-------: | :--------: | :-------: | :------: | | 55 | 112 | 34 | 20 |
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Report on the ascent made by the Tyumen Regional Federation of Alpinism team to the summit of Ama Dablam (6812 m) via the Southwest Ridge, category 5B route in 2013.

Author: Timur Gainullin, Tyumen. Ascent to Ama Dablam peak (Himalayas) High-altitude Cup FSR 2013

Report

of the Tyumen Regional Alpine Federation team on the ascent to Ama Dablam peak (6812 m) via the Southwest ridge 5B, (k) from May 14 to 19, 2013. Coach: Gainullin T.T., CMS. Leader: Gainullin T.T., CMS Participants:

  • Karpenko A.A.
  • Yablonskikh O.A.
  • Ivanovsky P.
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Climbing passport for Island Peak 6130 m in the Himalayas, Nepal, category of complexity 2B, a combined route with an altitude difference of 970 m.

Ascent Record To the summit of Island Peak 6130 m, Himalayas, Nepal

  1. Region — Himalayas, Nepal
  2. Summit — Island Peak 6130 m.
  3. Assumed category — 2B
  4. Route type — combined
  5. Route description: Height difference from Island Peak Base Camp — 970 m (5160–6130), route length — 1500 m. Section lengths:
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