Russian Mountaineering Championship

High-altitude class

2018

REPORT of the Rostov-Arkhangelsk region team on the ascent of Peak Kommunizma via the Borodkin route

Ascent Details

1. Region: 4. PAMIR 4.1. Academy of Sciences range (western side of Fedchenko glacier from Yazgulyam pass in the south to Muksu river in the north with all lateral spurs)

I. High-altitude class. 2. Pamir. Akademiya Nauk Range. 3. Peak Kommunizma, 7495 m, via the northern route through p. 6950 m (Borodkin) 4. Difficulty category — 5A 5. Elevation gain: 3300 m average slope of the route 40° section lengths:

• R2 — 1200 m
• R3 — 4000 m
• R4 — 600 m

Ascent Passport

1. Region, valley, section number according to the classification table (2001) - 4.1 Mountain region: Pamir (Tajikistan) Range: at the junction of Akademiya Nauk and Petra Pervogo.
2. Name of the peak: Kommunizm (7495 m), route name: via S slope from Walter's Glacier through BSP and "Big Barrier" (Borodkin's variant via Dushanbe Pass)
3. Category of difficulty – 5Ba
4. Route type: snow-ice
5. Height difference of the route: 3000 m Route length: 7250 m.

Report

On the ascent of the Chelyabinsk regional council team of the "Zenit" sports society to Peak Kommunizma via the 5B category difficulty route for the "Zenit" Central Sports Council championship in the high-altitude climbing class Chelyabinsk, 1972

Geographical description and sporting characteristics of the ascent route

Peak Kommunizma (7495) rises at the junction of the Peter the First and Academy of Sciences ridges (Fig. 1). The main questions of the orography of the Peak Kommunizma mountain node were resolved in 1932 by an expedition of the USSR Academy of Sciences. To the northeast of the peak lies the powerful Bivachny glacier, and to the southeast of the summit, at an altitude of 6000–6100 m, lies the "Pravda" peak plateau. To the northwest of the summit, at an altitude of 5700–6000 m, along the Peter the First ridge for ten kilometers, lies the Pamir firn plateau, representing an almost flat snow field. The summit tower of Peak Kommunizma descends steeply on the north and west with rocky slopes. To the west, at an altitude of 6900 m (Photo 1, R11), it is adjoined by a horizontal slope - the "Shoulder" of Peak Kommunizma - which forms the "Big Barrier" of the plateau. From the shoulder, a snow-ice slope descends to the plateau (northwest) with a clearly defined counterfort (Photo 1, R8–R10). This path was first taken by the VTsSPS expedition led by K. Kuzmin in 1957 to reach Peak Kommunizma. The ascent to the plateau was explored and made from the side of the Garmo glacier. And in 1968, three expeditions of the "Burevestnik" sports society conquered Peak Kommunizma from the side of the Fortambek glacier, ascending to the plateau via the "Burevestnik" ridge. Our team chose this route to conquer the highest point of the Soviet Union. Out of nine routes by which Peak Kommunizma has been conquered, this route is one of the safest and is classified as 5B category difficulty (all routes to Peak Kommunizma are rated not lower than 5B category).