Description of the route by sections

R0–R3. Start of the route. Approach to the bastion via firn and ice. Then a series of internal corners and walls, exit to a ledge. Control cairn. R3–R8. Very complex rock section. Limited crack selection and small holds. In winter, it is passed exclusively using artificial climbing techniques (ИТО). Key location of the route. R6–R16:

• Approach to an internal corner and chimney via a rock ledge.
• Difficult climbing. Movement using ИТО.
• Then via walls and "ram's foreheads".
• Exit to convenient and safe sites. Overnight stay. Section I6 — 2I. Approach to the upper key section via rock walls. Difficult climbing, rock cornice. Movement using ИТО. Exit to a bastion. Section 2I — 25. Snow-ice slope, then via rocks of 3–4 cat. sl. Exit to the summit.

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4875 m

Ii a c ii o p t

I. Season­ — winter 2. Tien-Shan, Kyrgyzsky Ridge, Ak-Sai gorge 3. Semenov-Tian-Shansky Peak (4875 m) via right side of West Face, combined route 4. Category­ — 5B 5. Height difference: 175 m, length­ — 1600 m Length of sections with 5­–6 cat. diff.­ — 600 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route­ — 65° (3700­–4300) 6. Pitons hammered in:

Passport

I. Category — technical. 2. Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz range, Ak-Sai glacier. 3. Peak Semenova-Tian-Shansky, 4875 m, via the right part of the Western wall. 4. Route 5B category of difficulty, combined. 5. Height difference — 970 m, main part of the route height difference — 565 m, average steepness — 68–70 degrees, Length of sections with 5B–6 category of difficulty — 120 m. 6. Pitons driven: rock blade pitons ice screw 57 0 64 4 IO 0 5 0

Route description by sections R0–R1 — steepness 80°, cracks, well-suited for 2.5–5 cm offset wired nuts, many loose rocks; R1–R3 — everything is available for organizing protection and free climbing; R3–R4 — monolithic wall 40 meters long with a steepness of 75°, smooth, passed through a crack 10–15 cm wide, very difficult climbing, as the crack edges are smooth, large nuts and cams are required for protection; R4–R6 — everything is available; R6–R7 — relief is shallow, mostly shallow cracks, climbed using positive holds, short pitons and small stoppers; R7–R8 — an open corner with a shallow crack 2.5–3.5 cm wide, crack is blind, relief is shallow — sloping shelves 1.5–3 cm wide, 20–40°; R8–R9 — the same as R7–R8, but with less steepness — 70°; R9–R10 — an open blind corner, walls are smooth, 2 expansion bolts were hammered and left for protection, at the exit from the corner there is an overhanging blind crack 3–4 cm wide, 50–80

Photo of the wall on the left. Taken on February 17, 1988 at 18:00. "Triplet" lens, Φ = 40 mm, distance 2 km, height 4300 m.

н. Cewanoba-Tay­бinows­кого 10,15 a.m. August 10, 2008

Ii a c ii o p t

I. Technical class 2. Tian­–Shan, Kyrgyzsky Ridge 3. Peak Semenova­–Tian­–Shansky, 4875 m, via central bastion of W. wall 4. Proposed — 6A cat. dif., first ascent 5. Height difference: 975 m, (main part of the route 560 m), length 2000 m length of sections with 5­–6 cat. dif. — 480 m, average steepness of main part of the route 72° 6. Pitons driven: | rock | bolt | chocks | ice screws |

Description of the route by sections.

sec. 0–I. Steep hard ice. sec. I–2. Destroyed rock wall. sec. 2–3. Snow-covered shelves. Control tur. sec. 3–4. Inner corner filled with ice, then a snow-covered shelf entering a steep rocky ridge. sec. 4–5. Along the ridge, first on the left in the direction of travel, then with the help of ITO, transition to the right part of the ridge. sec. 5–6. Steep rocky ridge leads to a snowy shelf. sec. 6–7. Wall with small gentle holds. sec. 7–8. Traverse through a couloir to a large shelf. sec. 8–9. Rocky wall, complex climbing, few holds, pendulum used for passage. At the end of the section, relief like "ram's foreheads".