Eurasia

Weather in Ala Archa National Park by month: temperature, stability, precipitation, and safety recommendations for climbers.

People often ask about the weather in Ala-Archa, when the best season is, and when it's safe to ice climb. I've decided to put this information into a micro-article. January Stable weather, many sunny days, often calm. The temperature at Ratschek hut is -10 to -20°C with rare deviations from this range. However, there's only 2 hours of sunlight per day, not enough to warm up. February Almost like January, but towards the end of the month, stability is lost – March is approaching. March Very unstable weather. Stormy winds can last for 2 consecutive days, and fog can hang for 2 weeks. Heavy snowfalls are rare but possible. On good days, even in early March, it's sometimes possible to walk in a T-shirt when the sun is out. Daytime temperatures range from -10 to +5°C. April The same March winds, but it gets warmer. May

A description of the climbing route to Gvandra and Uzunkol via the eastern ridge from the False Myrdı pass, with details on passage and safety recommendations.

GvandrauZunkol — description of the climbing route "ZA" from SK Greta Route description: From the Myrdy bivouac, ascend via scree and moraines to the snowy slopes on the right. Climb the slopes to reach the Myrdy glacier plateau. From the plateau, move towards the Western summit of Myrdy. Ascend via snowy slopes and a wide couloir to the right of the summit to reach the Lozhny Myrdy pass. The Eastern ridge (second from the Ak-Tyube pass) is located opposite this pass. If approaching the ridge from the pass, then: Cross the plateau perpendicular to the pass saddle Ascend to the right lower part of the ridge rocks via snowy (steep at the top) slopes

Video guide to the 3A route to the first tower of the Crown by experienced alpinist Dima Pavlenko.

Video guide for the 3A route to the first tower of the Crown by Dima Pavlenko.

Video guide to climbing Balezin's Right Route (5B cat.) on Peak Svobodnaya Koreya with experienced mountaineer Dima Pavlenko.

Video guide of the Balezin's right route (5B) on Peak Svobodnaya Koreya by Dima Pavlenko.

Maciej Bereta, a Polish traveler, made the first winter solo ascent of Mt Pobeda in Yakutia, one of the coldest mountains on the planet, and was awarded the 11th Shackleton Award for crossing the Anabar Plateau.

Unless you live in Siberia or Canada's Arctic, you likely don't know cold like Maciej Berbeka, a Polish computer science specialist and traveler who has been undertaking solo climbs for over a decade in what he calls some of the coldest and most inaccessible mountain ranges and plateaus on Earth. Berbeka's latest expedition took place in February. It was the first winter solo ascent of , and it perfectly illustrates his longstanding interest in extreme cold and autonomous travel. The Coldest Mountain on the Planet? Pobeda, the highest peak in Yakutia, was previously climbed in winter in 2018 by climbers Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger. Moro called it "the coldest climb in history, on the coldest mountain on the planet," as temperatures as low as -70˚C have been recorded in the region. Berbeka started his winter solo from the same point as Moro and Lunger. He ascended in a single day, tracing a line through deep, loose snow all the way. "Of all my solo winter ascents in North Siberia, this was definitely the most challenging," he said. "Others were just as cold, maybe even colder, but none were even close in terms of technical difficulties and snow conditions," he added. Berbeka reached the start of the route on skis, then switched to crampons and ascended via the south wall, repeating the route through the central couloir taken in 2018. Summiting in the Dark

Video guide to the Barbar route (5B, ice climbing) on Peak Svobodnaya Korona by experienced mountaineer Dima Pavlenko.

Video guide for the Barbera Route (5B, ice climbing) on Pik Svobodnoy Korei by Dima Pavlenko.

Ascent to the summit Main Ptysh via the "Tie" route category of difficulty: a detailed description of the path, belay, and recommendations for climbers.

Fig. 39 Ascent to the summit of Glavny Ptysh via the "tie" — beyond the category of difficulty (see Fig. 39) From the Ptyshsky pass, move right along the glacier (protection!) towards a large rocky ridge. Ascend the rocky ridge 40–50 m upwards to a bivouac. From the pass, it takes 1 hour. From the bivouac, ascend 90–100 m upwards along the broken rocks (rockfall hazard!), exit onto a snowy slope with a steepness of 35–40°, and from there, move right-upwards towards a rocky outcrop. Ascend 50–60 m up the rocky outcrop (protection via protrusions!), exit onto a steep snowy slope (45°), and from there, cross a bergschrund onto a rocky outcrop in the "tie" couloir. Ascend 40 m up the rocks (protection via protrusions!), then traverse the steep snowy couloir leftwards (protection!), and exit onto rocks. Ascend 60 m up the rocks (protection via protrusions!) to a steep snowy slope (60–65°), and from there, ascend 180–200 m straight upwards (protection!) to a platform to the right of a gendarme. To the right of the gendarme, ascend scree, then move left behind the gendarme along rocks of medium difficulty towards a narrow icy couloir. Cross the couloir leftwards (piton protection!), exit onto rocks of medium difficulty, and ascend straight upwards onto a ridge. Ascend to the summit along the broken rocks of the ridge. From the bivouac on the rocky outcrop to the summit, it takes 6 hours. The descent follows the ascent route and takes 5–6 hours. The route from the bergschrund to the summit is prone to rockfall! Recommendations for climbers The number of participants in a group should not exceed 6 people. The initial bivouac is on a rocky ridge. Departure time from the bivouac should not be later than 4 am.

23-year-old guide Temur Kurdiani made the first solo ascent of the mixed 5A/M5+ route to the 4,869-meter summit, tackling 80-degree ice and vertical granite in just 4 hours.

According to information from mountain.ru and planetmountain.com: 23-year-old guide and alpinist Temur Kurdiani completed a solo first ascent of a route. The line follows steep, mixed terrain, and the climber graded the difficulty at 5A/M5+. Starting at 4000 meters, the ascent climbs the wall to 4700, where it joins the classic route all the way to the summit at 4869 m. The climb took just 4 hours, despite encountering sections of 80-degree ice and vertical granite. ![](https://summitx.info/media/1/lweRCxxrjJ6xkntiaPFoHsQenFkIyRwP

Sasha Moroz shares his experience on the trek to Mera Peak and the summit ascent, and talks about his further plans to climb the west face.

In a beautiful video, Sasha Moroz describes his impressions of Nepal, and also talks in detail about the trek to Mera Peak via the pass , and the ascent to the summit. Further plans include climbing via the American Direct route on the west wall. Source: Moroz Mountains, Alexandr Moroz - Mountain Guide | Moroz Mountains

Video guide to the "Kuzmenko" route (5A, rock climbing) on Peak Baychechekhey by experienced mountaineer Dima Pavlenko.

Video guide to the Kuzmenko route ("Kuzma", 5A, rock climbing) on Peak Baychechekay by Dima Pavlenko.