Description of the Ascent Route to Arkhon Glavny (4253 m) via the Northeast Ridge, Category 3B Complexity

The Arkhon massif is located in the Tepli group of peaks in the Northeast spur of the Kolota peak (4168 m). Its four peaks, listed in order from Kolota, are named:

• Yuzhny (South)
• Tsentralny (Central)
• Glavny (Main)
• Maly (Small) The first ascent of Glavny Arkhon was made on July 2, 1949, by a group led by Senior Lieutenant German. On July 3, 1949, the ascent was repeated by a group of climbers from the Ordzhonikidze "Medik" Sports Society (led by A. Kalmykov). These ascents were made from the Khardadzhin glacier from the south and are classified as Category 2A. On May 29, 1966, a group of climbers from Ordzhonikidze, led by R. Proskuryakov, made the first ascent of the Northeast ridge of Arkhon Glavny, approaching it from the Kurtatin valley. The group consisted of athletes with 1st sports rank and one with 2nd sports rank. On the same day, a group of third-rank climbers led by N. Alchiev made the first ascent of Arkhon Maly (3942 m) via the Southwest ridge, Category 2B complexity.

Day One

From Ordzhonikidze, travel through the village of Dzuarikau to the Kurtatin valley until the fork of the Fiagdon and Dzamarash-don rivers (2 hours 30 minutes). At the fork, cross the Fiagdon River to the left bank and follow the trail for about 1 km along the river. The trails lead into the first valley to the west.

Route Description for Climbing Arkhon Maly Peak (3942 m)

Category II-B difficulty. The peak is located in the Teplinskaya group of the Front Range of the Greater Caucasus, on the northeastern spur of Kolota, immediately adjacent to the Arkhon Glavny peak (4253 m) to the southwest. The first ascent to Arkhon Maly was made by a group of climbers from Ordzhonikidze led by N. Alchiev on May 29, 1966, from the Fiagdon valley via the southwest ridge. Day I. Traveling from Ordzhonikidze through the Kurtatinskoye gorge to the confluence of the Fiagdon and Dzamarashdon rivers takes 2 hours 30 minutes. Cross the Fiagdon River via a bridge near a watchtower and follow the trail up to the first hanging valley (on the left orographic slope of the gorge). The ascent proceeds up a grassy slope, which becomes quite steep at the top, leading to a moraine hill. The moraine ridge is sharp, with avalanche debris from Glavny Arkhon on both sides. On the first day, the ascent reaches an absolute height of 3000 m. At the junction of the moraine and the slope, a bivouac is set up on a small site. The ascent to the bivouac takes 3 hours. Day II. Depart at 5:00 AM. After proceeding 100 m along the moraine, turn right and ascend the slope to the eastern buttress of the northeastern ridge of Arkhon. Upon reaching the ridge of the buttress:

• form a rope team;
• move up the ridge.

Ascent Record

1. Ascent classification: winter.
2. Ascent area: Caucasus, Lateral Ridge, Tsadjiudon gorge.
3. Peak, route: Arkhon Maly (3984 m), via the Northwest Ridge and the right part of the North Face.
4. Estimated difficulty category: 6A winter, first ascent.
5. Height difference:

• 1135 m.
• of which the wall section is 250 m.
• length of the wall section — 255 m.
• total route length — 1680 m.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — first ascent.
2. Ascent area — Tepli-Arkhon massif.
3. Peak — Arkhon Malyy, its height — 3953 m, ascent route — via the Northern wall of the Western ridge.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 5B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1300 m, length of sections with 5B-6 difficulty category — 370 m, average steepness 76° (of the wall section).
6. Pitons hammered: | | rock | ice | bolt | stopper | |:---|:---:|:----:|:---:|:-----:| | for belay: | 86 | 3 | 0 | 34 |

Ascent Passport

1. Rock climbing category.
2. Caucasus, Bokovoy Range, Arkhon massif.
3. Arkhon Severny (3571 m); from the West via the North-East ridge.
4. Proposed — 2A category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Elevation gain: 500 m. Length about 1 km. Average slope on the route is about 30°.
6. Pitons hammered: rock, chocks. 5/0 7/0 Left on the route: rock – 2 (for descent)