Sports team of Voroshilovgradkhimstroy complex Uzunkol alpine camp

REPORT

on the first ascent to the Shidag-Mingen peak via the northern ridge, category 3B, on July 27, 1980 Severodonetsk From the bivouac on the moraine in the cirque of B. Nakhar and Dvuzubka peaks, along the moraine ridge on the left side of the North Nakhar glacier, then ascent to the right and upwards along the glacier to the bergschrund under the couloir leading to Igolchaty pass. 1 hour from the overnight stay. Cross the bridge from right to left (belay), exit to simple rocks and along the talus shelf - under the overhangs on the left side of the couloir. Under the overhangs, along the boundary of rocks and snow, ascent to the start of a 20m 60° chimney. Up the chimney (rocks! pitons!) and then along the 40m 45° inclined slabs (belay), exit to the talus couloir. 200m along the couloir - simultaneous movement - from left to right towards the snow and then 40m upwards along the rocks like "sheep's foreheads" (belay! pitons!). Exit under the finger on the pass (convenient bivouac spot) and then to the pass. This is the I control point. 2 hours from the bergschrund. From Igolchaty pass, along the left side of the wall, 20m 80°, exit to a shelf. From the shelf straight up along a 7m 90° chimney and then along an inclined crack under the overhangs (difficult climbing), exit to a narrow (0.5m) horizontal shelf - 10m under the overhangs (careful belay!). At the end of the shelf is the II control point.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class — rock climbing. 2. Ascent region — Western Caucasus. Nakhar gorge. 3. Peak, its height, and ascent route — Mt. Shidag-Lingen (3450 m) via the northern ridge. 4. Expected difficulty category — 3B technical difficulty. 5. Route characteristics: Elevation gain — 520 m Average steepness — 50°–55°. Route length — 840 m. Length of sections with 4th technical difficulty — 60 m 6. Pitons hammered for protection: rock — 29 ice — 0
bolts — 0 7. Number of walking hours: 14 h

Ascent Form

1. Ascent category: rock climbing
2. Ascent area: Nakhara spur of the Main Caucasian Range
3. Ascent route with indication of peaks, their heights, route complexity (etc., approximately): South wall of Dvuzubka peak, height 3400 m, 5B category of difficulty
4. Ascent characteristics: Route length 820 m, height difference 550–600 m, average steepness 75°, complex sections length 670 m
5. Pitons driven: rock 114, chocks — 47. Ice and bolt pitons.
6. Number of climbing hours 34 h
7. Number of climbing days 3
8. Number of overnight stays and their characteristics: two sitting bivouacs on comfortable ledges

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: rock climbing.
2. Ascent area: Caucasus from Nakhar Pass to Chipper-Azau Pass, spurs of the Main Caucasian Range.
3. Dvuzubka Peak 3600 m via the center of the southwest wall.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 5B.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain: 780 m; average steepness: 71°; length of sections: II — 80 m, III — 170 m, IV — 290 m, V — 440 m (VБ — 320 m).
6. Number of pitons driven: