Koy Avgan Bashi

in the center of the North slope, category 3B, first ascent AGLK "Dzhailyk" Virchenko Yu.P. — CMS Skornyakov A.N. — CMS Senior coach — Popov V.P.

Route Description

The route goes along the snow-ice slope, lying between rocky outcrops straight up to the snow pre-summit. Then from the pre-summit along the ridge in the southern direction to the summit Koy-Avgan. The beginning of the route is near the right side of the bergschrund crossing the base of the North slope. After overcoming the bergschrund, move straight up the snow-ice slope towards the saddle between two rocky outcrops. Along the left side of the lower rocky outcrop. The average steepness is 30°. The length of this section is 800 m. From the saddle between the outcrops, move straight up along the right side of the upper rocky outcrop towards the pre-summit. In this area, the slope is usually pure ice with a steepness of 40°–45°. The length of this section is 400 m. Belay through ice screws.

The description is compiled based on materials from the training part of Ulutau a/l.

Description of the Approach to the Route

From the AGЛК "Jailyk", cross the bridge over the Adyr-Su river downstream. Behind the bridge, to the left near the source, a trail begins, going through the forest up the slope in the direction of the Jalovchat lake. Climbing along the trail:

• Cross to the left (green) moraine, leading to the N. counterfort of the E. ridge in Koy-Avgan.
• Continue ascent along the moraine.
• The N. counterfort of the E. ridge is dissected by a large couloir in its lower part.
• Ascend along the green moraine until the upper part of the counterfort dissected by the couloir starts to overhang on the left.
• Here, turn left and ascend up the slope to the rocks of the counterfort, leaving the couloir to the right.
• The start of the route is in the middle (between two rocky spurs) of the lower part of the bastion, which is crowned with a rocky tooth and connected by a narrow ridge to the main part of the counterfort.

10. Koyavgan via the East Ridge (combined route, by A. Baturova, category III complexity, fig. 1, 2).

From the “Dzhailyk” alpine camp (a group of 4 people) descend right down the road on the right side of the Adyrsu gorge. Cross the Adyrsu River via the bridge and approach the Jalovchat stream, then turn left off the road and ascend via the left bank of the stream to the left lateral moraine of the Jalovchat tributary valley, to the right of the East Ridge of Koyavgan peak. Along the moraine on the left bank of the Jalovchat stream, bypassing rock wall outcrops on the right, reach the tongue of the Jalovchat Glacier. From the “Dzhailyk” alpine camp, it takes 2–3 hours. From the glacier tongue, turn left and ascend a steep scree slope with short ice and snow sections to approach the left side of the lower rock belt on the right side of the East Ridge of Koyavgan peak. To the left of the rock belt, from the col of the East Ridge with a sharp gendarme in the center, descends:

• a steep Central ice-and-snow couloir,
• with a diamond-shaped rock outcrop in its middle section. From the scree slope, to the right of the Central couloir, ascend 30 m leftward along an ice-and-snow slope alongside the rock belt. Then directly upwards via moderately difficult rocks in a not clearly defined steep 30-meter couloir (pitons for protection). Continue ascending 40 m rightward via easy rocks to the top of the rock belt. From here, ascend a steep ice-and-snow slope on the East Ridge, to the right of the Central couloir, upwards and rightwards (possible rockfall) to the left side of a long narrow rock outcrop. Then ascend via easy, heavily fragmented rocks on the left side of the narrow outcrop to its top. From there, ascend a steep ice-and-snow slope (pitons for protection) to approach the right side of the rock ascent on the East Ridge. Via heavily fragmented, easy rocks on the right side of the ascent:
• ascend 30 m straight up,

Description

The description is compiled based on materials from the training part of Ullutau alplager. Route description: from the "Ullutau" alpine base (group 4 - 20 people) cross the Adyrsu river by the bridge, turn right and descend along the trail to reach the Koyavgan stream. Cross it and follow the trail on the right bank of the stream (there is a waterfall on the left) steeply upwards, then, having passed the green areas, approach the right-bank moraine. Along the moraine, bypassing the glacier tongue and its rugged part from the right, reach the upper plateau of the glacier and follow the right side of it, and then ascend snowy scree (avalanches, rockfall from the slopes of Koyavgan peak) to the Southern (right) saddle of Koyavgan pass. From the "Ullutau" alpine base, it takes 4-4.5 hours. On the pass, turn slightly to the right and reach the rocks of the Southern ridge of Koyavgan peak. From here, follow the poorly defined, wide, steep, and heavily destroyed ("live") Southern ridge, bypassing small gendarmes on the right, to approach the Big Gendarme. Bypass it on the left and then, on the left side of the heavily destroyed, steep Southern ridge (rockfall), ascend to the summit of Koyavgan (3877 m). From the pass, it takes 1.5 hours

• Descent follows the ascent route
• The route is dangerous due to rockfall!