Tikhonov

Traverse of Peak Tikhonov - Koshtantau with ascent to Peak Tikhonov via the South Face by a new route of category 5B difficulty.

ASCENT DOCUMENT Technical climbing category Central Caucasus, Krumkol gorge Traverse of Tikhonov Peak — Koshtantau with ascent to Tikhonov Peak via the South Face Proposed 5B category, first ascent of Tikhonov Peak South Face Total elevation gain: 1595 m, total distance: 2310 m, including wall section: 1070 m elevation gain, 1255 m distance. Total distance of 5–6 category sections: 870 m, including 680 m on the wall section, of which 120 m are category 6. Average steepness of the wall section: 60° Total pitons used: | Piton type | Rock | Chocks | Ice screws | Bolts | |---|:---:|:---:|:---:|:---:| | | 118 | 69 | 34 | - |

Traversing Peak Tikhonov - Koshtantau via the North Counterfort and West Ridge, category 5A, 8-9 hours from the initial bivouac and 6-8 hours from the bivouac on the saddle.

Traversing Pik Tikhonov - Koshtantau with ascent to Pik Tikhonov via the Northern Counterfort - Category 5A (E. Abalakov and V. Miklyashevsky - August 25-29, 1938; Figs. 10, II, 13, 17). The route from the Bezengi alpine camp to Pik Tikhonov via the Northern Counterfort is described in route 40. From Pik Tikhonov, descend via simple, crumbling rocks and a snowy slope to the saddle on the Eastern Ridge. Set up a bivouac on the saddle. From the initial bivouac - 8-9 hours. From the bivouac: Ascend rocks of medium difficulty to the first gendarme on the Western Ridge of Koshtantau. Traverse or circumvent the second and third gendarmes along the ridge or via ledges and slopes on their right side, reaching the saddle below the fourth gendarme. From the saddle, ascend a 60-meter ridge and a 5-meter chimney to reach the ledges. Traverse the ledges to the right and upwards to reach the Southern Counterfort of the fourth gendarme. Ascend the counterfort, bypassing a rocky "finger" on the left via ledges, to reach the gendarme and descend to the Western Ridge. The fourth gendarme can be circumvented on the right: Descend 10 meters down the wall to the right while traversing it.

Ascent to Peak Tikhonov via the NW edge, category 4A difficulty, with route description and recommendations for climbers.

Peak Tikhonov via NW ridge — 4A cat. diff. (V. Lubenets, V. Volchenko, L. Kalishevsky, I. Kunaev, V. Lebedev, V. Nikolaenko, A. Ovchinnikov and A. Sevostyanov — August 23, 1951). The path from the "Bezengi" alpine camp to the overnight stay on the Southern ridge of the Utug spire is described in route 18. From the overnight stay: Descent to the glacier above the third stage of the icefall Crossing the glacier to the right towards the Northern counterforce of Peak Tikhonov Through the bergschrund — ascent up the steep 150-meter snowy slope to the saddle

Ascent to Tikhonov Peak via the North wall (4A cat. of difficulty) from the Bezengi alpine camp with a detailed description of the route and recommendations for climbers.

Peak Tikhonov via North Face — Cat. 4A (L. Alekshashin, V. Koptev and Yu. Minin — August 14, 1959). The route from the Bezengi alpine camp to the bivouac on the Southern ridge of the Utug gendarme is described in route 18. Bivouac on the Southern ridge. From the bivouac: Descend to the glacier above the third stage of the icefall Cross the glacier to the right towards the North Face of Peak Tikhonov On the glacier (with crampons!), bypass the base of the northern rock walls of Peak Tikhonov on the left Move along the right side of a steep, wide snow-ice slope — a couloir descending from the saddle — the junction of the Eastern ridge of Peak Tikhonov and the Western ridge of Koshtantau peak Ascend 200 m up to the base of the rock wall Ascend 70 m up steep snow-covered difficult rocks of the wall — to the right (pitched climbing!) to reach the left counterfort

Report on the traverse of the North massif from Koshtantau peak to Dykhtau peak with the ascent along the northern wall of Koshtantau by the "Dzhailyk" team in 1971.

To the Judging Committee Central Council of Physical Education And Sports Report on the traverse of the North massif from Koshtantau peak to Dykhtau peak with ascent via the northern wall of Koshtantau by the "Dzhailyk" team. Team composition: Captain — Candidate Master of Sports Mal'tsev V.F. and coach Members: Candidate Master of Sports Bakulin A.A.