Тraverse of the entire massif from Iiyintau to Peak Gorin, route 5B cat. diff. (fig. 43, 43a). If the approach starts from the Talgar alpine camp, go up the Middle Talgar gorge, turn in the direction of the Kopr glacier (see road sign). Approach to the Kopr glacier via ancient moraines:

• terminal,
• then lateral, right. The trail is clearly visible. Go to Rakhimov's bivouac at the tongue of the glacier. Here are well-prepared places for a tent. From the camp to Rakhimov's bivouac - 4 hours walk. From the bivouac in the eastern direction, along the left part of the glacier along the ridge of the Sportivnaya peak, to the bergschrund. The bergschrund is bypassed on the left or crossed via a snow bridge. Turn right, go along the bergschrund to the first destroyed rocks. Here is the so-called Kel's tur. The height is gained gradually. From here, diagonally ascent along the ice-snow slope (steepness up to 50°). Go to a not very high, heavily destroyed ridge. At the top, beyond the end of the ridge, there is a section of ice 15-20 m. Go on crampons with hook belay (cautiously!). Behind it is a section of heavily destroyed rocks, which turn into a rocky ridge, interspersed with snowy sections. Behind this ridge, turn left onto a snowfield and exit onto the ridge of the Kopr peak. From the ice section, there is a second option for passing this segment - exit left from the rocks up the snowfield to the ridge of the Kopr peak. Here, turn right. After 50-60 m:
• Priyut Pyati (Five Shelter) at the rocks

Aktyuz Pass. Descend from the pass about thirty meters down the icy slope to the bergschrund (be careful!). Piton insurance. Go 150 m along the lower edge of the bergschrund, then down and right across snowy and sometimes icy slopes up to 40° to complete the descent onto Kroshka Glacier. Traverse Kroshka Glacier: go along the very middle in the upper part, and on the right side in the tongue area. Cross the moraine to a trail leading down the Orta Talgar valley.

Recommendations for Climbers

1. Maximum 6 participants.
2. Initial bivouac on Kopor Glacier.
3. Depart from initial bivouac no later than 5 am.
4. Equipment for a 4-person group: a) 2 × 40 m main ropes; b) 1 × 40 m auxiliary rope; c) 5 slings; d) 10 rock pitons; e) 6 ice pitons; f) 2 hammers; g) 6 carabiners. Fig. 43a

World Climbing Championship High-Altitude Technical Class National Team of the Republic of Kazakhstan

Peak Trud, 4635 m via the west face, 5B cat. diff. (first ascent)

General photo of the summit

Taken from Kroshka glacier on May 26 at 19:00

Ascent Passport

1. Region, gorge:

Tien Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau, Middle Talgar

2. Summit name, route name:

• Climbing category: technical
• Climbing area: Trans-Ili Alatau ridge
• Peak, its height, and ascent route: peak "TRUD", 4650 m, via the right part of the Western wall, first ascent.
• Estimated route category: 5B
• Route characteristics: height difference — 1180 m, average steepness — 55°, total route length — 1560 m, section lengths:
  • 3rd difficulty category — 415 m
  • 4th difficulty category — 580 m
  • 5th difficulty category — 540 m
  • 6th difficulty category — 25 m
• Pitons used:

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class: technical 2. Ascent area: Zailiyskiy Ala-Tau 3. Peak: Tруд 4650 m via the left part of the West wall, first ascent. 4. Proposed difficulty category: 5B. 5. Route characteristics: Height difference 1010 m. Average steepness 65°. Total route length — 1190 m. Length of sections with 4th difficulty category — 330 m, 5th difficulty category — 480 m. 6. Pitons hammered: insurance and others

• Rock pitons — 27
• Ice pitons — 2