Maly Kilsy-Burun — 1.

On the right side of the southwest wall, 1B (II — 100 m)

At the expansion of the upper (old) highway, turn onto the trail leading to the Kiev couloir, located between the Zamok and Maly Kilsy peaks. Follow the trail to the talus and from there to the middle part of the couloir (section R0), which is approximately opposite the start of the "Kievskaya" route on Zamok. On section R1 — 200 m up and to the right on simple rocks to the right edge of the southwest wall. Then up and left to the left edge of the buttress and along it to the wall. Then traverse right 40 m, overcoming in the lowering a неслож­ный ridge of the buttress (R1: 200 m, 40–50°; 40 m, 50°, I). On section R2 — first 20 m up and to the right to a pine tree, and from it 15 m up and to the left. Then (section R3) up and to the right to a large pine tree under the upper part of the wall (R2: 35 m, 60°, II; R3: 40 m, 65°, II). On section R4 — up and to the left, and then straight up to the exit to the summit (R4: 40 m, 65°, II). Alternative: On section R2 — from the bush 50 m up and to the right to a large pine tree (R2: 40 m, 70°, II+; R3: 20 m, 65°, II).

Maly Kilse-Bu­run — 12. Along the south-eastern ridge edge, 2B (III — 40 m), variant: 1B (I — 240 m)

In the mountains — mountaineering routes of Crimea This is one of the most popular routes in the area among "beginners". Turn from the road to the trail leading to the Kiev couloir. Go a little along the trail, then:

• ascend the scree slope under the southern wall of the summit;
• bypass it along the scree in the eastern direction;
• ascend to a small couloir between the summits of Maly Kilse and Kilse-Burun (section R0). On section R1–R2 — from the tree at the beginning of the couloir upwards 5 m to the next tree,

Maly Kilsy-Burun — 11

Right edge of the western wall of the south-eastern ridge, 3B (IV — 35 m) (by A. Brynza team, 1991)

The approach to the ledge under the central part of the southern wall is described in route 3. On the section R1–R2 — from the ledge upwards along small walls and shelves of the right edge of the western wall of the south-eastern ridge (R1–R2: 40 m, 60°, II). On the section R2–R3 — first 10 m up a sheer wall, then 10 m up a steep inner corner and another 12 m up and to the right along moderately difficult rocks to a shelf. Along it to the right to the beginning of a steep inner corner (R2–R3: 40 m, 70°, III+). On the section R3–R4:

• first up a 20-meter inner corner,
• then up and to the right along moderately difficult rocks (R3–R4: 35 m, 70°, IV). Fur­ther, the fol­lo­wing op­tions are pos­si­ble to reach the ridge. Here you can either go up and slightly left along a long inner corner (section R4–R5), or up and to the right along moderately difficult rocks (section R4') to reach a tree on the ridge (R4–R5: 30 m, 70°, III+; R4': 50 m, 70°, III).

Maly Kilse-Burun - 10, Kolya-Tolya route (variant) 3B, F5b (5 m 6a), 160 m In the mountains - alpinist routes of Crimea The route has several passage options. One of them is given below. From the upper road, first follow the trail leading to the Kiev couloir*, and then straight up the scree slope to the wall. Ascend to a rocky ledge under the central part of the wall.

• Kiev couloir — a couloir separating the Zamok and Maly Kilse peaks. Along inclined rocks in the right part of the wall, approach a cleft that leads to a ledge with strawberry trees. Belay station on a bolt with the inscription "8 марта" (March 8th).

Maly Kilse-Burun — 2

Via the center of the south face and the southwest ridge, 4B (Y — 10 m) (Yu. Lishaev's route («Fanika»), 1973)

The approach to the route is roughly the same as in route 2. Having ascended the scree slope under the south face of the summit, exit onto a rocky ledge under its central part (section R0). On section R1–R2 — upwards along gentle slabs to the base of a small counterfort. Then upwards along it (section R2–R3), first through a cleft, and then along an internal corner to a small depression (R1–R2: 20 m, 60°, II; R2–R3: 40 m, 80°, IY+). On section R3–R4 — first straight up, and then left and up under the left side of a long and narrow flake. Further (section R4–R5) upwards along a sheer 10-meter cleft, located on the left side of the flake, which was named "Pen" («Перо») by the first ascenders (R3–R4: 30 m, 65°, II; R4–R5: 10 m, 85°, Y). On section R5–R6 — first traverse 8 m to the left to a wide internal corner, and then upwards along it (section R5–R6: 30 m, 60°, III). On section R6–R7 — upwards along an internal corner. An overhanging section in the upper part is bypassed on the left (section R6–R7: 40 m, 70°, IV). On section R7–R8 — first up the wall to the right, and then up a chimney. On the final section — upwards along steep walls to the summit (R7–R8: 40 m, 70°–III; R8–summit: 30 m, 60°, III). The length of the main part of the route is 240 m. The ascent takes 4–5 hours. P.S. In recent years, the route is rarely climbed.

Maly Kilse-Burun — 4

Via the central part of the southern wall through the spalled "Feather", 5A (Y — 40 m) (S. Brynza's itinerary, 1991)

The description of the ascent to the wide rocky ledge under the central part of the southern wall is given in route 3. The initial sections of this route coincide with route 3. On the R2–R3 section, first ascend the slabs to the counterfort, and then follow it (R1–R2: 20 m, 60°, II; 40 m, 75°, IV+). On the R2–R3 section — ascend simple rocks to an internal corner located to the right of a long and narrow spall ("Nashlyopka" or "Feather") (R2–R3: 20 m, 60°, I). On the R3–R4 section — ascend the internal corner, transitioning into a chimney, until you

Maly Kilsye-Bu­run — 6

Description compiled by: Alek­sей Osi­pov German ("Spear") 5B, VI, A1, 250 m

R0­–R1

15 m — IV, 8 m — V+, 15 m — VI, A1 R1­–R2 (can be di­vided into 2 sec­tions due to a bend) 20 m to a tree — V, 2 m pendulum to the left (although the bolt is no longer there) — VI 10 m — IV+

R2­–R3

45 m — V

Maly Kilse-Burun — 3. "Crisis"

Massif: Maly Kilse-Burun (638 m); Grade: 5A, VI, A3; Year of route creation: 2007; Number of pitches: 6; Length: 240 m; Time to complete: 7–9 h The route is located in the left part of the wall. A memorial plaque to climbers who perished on the mountain serves as a landmark for the start of the route. R0–R1. 45 m. From the plaque, first up, then diagonally from right to left along a thin crack, we exit to the base of a large flake. There is one intermediate bolts.

Maly Kilsе-Burun — 5B

The description was compiled by: Alexander Lav­ri­nen­ko, Odesa "Three Cornices" route by Yuriy Lish­aev 5B, VI, A2, 220 m The route starts from the left part of the "mould", 30–40 meters to the left of "Kop'e" ("German") R0–R1

• Up the wall with sharp holds, to a belay bolt 5–7 meters
• From the belay bolt traverse right to a crack
• Climb up the crack 10 m
• Then up a vertical slab with belay bolts A1, it's possible to climb Maly Kilsе "Three Cornices" 6A

Maly Kilse-Burun, Skalnaya khirurgiya route, 6A, by V. Voloshanovsky

The start is to the right of the "Spear" near the white spot on the wall. Maly Kilse, route threads Route threads. Photo by: Alexey Zhilin R0–R1, 40 m 6A, A2. Climb the slab to a bolt, then move right to a crack. After 7 m, the crack ends; continue right and up using ATC ( крючья, скайхуки). Exit to a hanging position. Station on bolts. R1–R2, 20 m 6A, A2. Cross the overhang using ATC (need bolts for 10 mm holes). Beyond the overhang, a mix of climbing and ATC, up and right. Station on bolts (hanging). R2­–R3, 45 m 6a, A2. Up a narrow crack, enter an internal corner. Climb the corner