Цухгарты

Fig. 4 10. Tsukhgarty via Western Ridge (combined route by I. Suzhaev, category 4A difficulty, Fig. 4). From the "Nakhashbita" meadow (group of 4–6 people) ascend via grassy slopes and then moraines to the right and upwards (northeast) towards the areas near a small lake below the Tsukhgarty glacier, beneath the Sugansky Ridge saddle, which connects the Nakhashbita peak on the left and Tsukhgarty on the right. The journey from the "Nakhashbita" meadow takes 1 hour 15 minutes. From the lake, ascend the steep slope (possible rockfall — belaying required) of the Tsukhgarty glacier:

• approach a small icefall, which is bypassed on the right side closer to the rocks of Tsukhgarty peak
• after the icefall, ascend the narrow glacier (exposed to rockfall from Nakhashbita and Tsukhgarty slopes) in the direction of the snowy slope of the couloir descending from Nakhashbita pass, located between its large gendarme and the Main Nakhashbita peak — on the left The journey from the lake takes 2–2.5 hours. From the glacier, overcome the bergschrund via a snow bridge (belaying required) and continue ascending, sticking to the right side of the ice-snow couloir (possible rockfall) or the destroyed rocks on its right side (belaying required). In the middle part of the couloir, exit onto the ridge and then ascend an 70–80-meter slope (pitons belay) to reach the Sugansky Ridge saddle to the left of the Big Gendarme. Ascent time:

Fig. 4 8. Tzukhgarty via the East Ridge (V. Popov's combined route, category 4A, fig. 4). The path from the "Nakhashbita" meadow (group of 4–8 people) to the initial bivouac on the saddle of the Sugan Ridge between the peaks of Galdor on the right and Tzukhgarty on the left is described in routes 1, 6. On the saddle, turn left and approach along the ridge to the rocky ascent of Tzukhgarty's East Ridge. Climb 40 m up the steep, moderately difficult rocks of the ascent ("live" stones - protection) under the vertical walls.

9. Tsukhgar­ty via the South­ern Counter­fort and East­ern Ridge (com­bi­ned route, 2A cat. dif., Fig. 2, 4). From the “Nakhashbi­ta” meadow (group of 4–8 peo­ple) up­wards to the left (north-east) along grassy slopes, then scree to the South­ern Tsukhgar­ty glacier, which flows down from the Tsukhgar­ty massif be­tween its South­ern Ridge and South­ern Counter­fort. From here, straight up the snow slope with sim­ple rock out­crops (pro­tec­tion) of the South­ern Tsukhgar­ty glacier. In the up­per part of the glacier, where it widens, turn right and:

• via sim­ple rock out­crops, al­ter­nat­ing with ice and snow slopes (pro­tec­tion)
• then via sim­ple rocks and scree as­cend to the South­ern Counter­fort. Here, turn left and via sim­ple rocks and scree of the long South­ern Counter­fort