Grand Capucin

Description of the first ascent of the "Russian Winter" route on the East face of Grand Capucin in the Mont Blanc massif, made by Russian climbers in February 1999.

Passport Winter category. France, Alps, Mont Blanc massif. Grand Capucin peak, 3838 m, via the East face. Route "Russkaya zima" (Russian Winter). Proposed category — 6A, first ascent. Height difference — 508 m, length — 570 m, including wall section 413 and 420 m, respectively. Length of sections with 5th category difficulty — 30 m, 6th category difficulty — 390 m. Average steepness of the wall section 82°, from bergschrund to summit 71°. Pitons driven: rock bolts, pitons, ice screws | 42 | 230 | 0 | 0 | | :-: | :-: | :-: | :-: |

Ascent description for the summit of Grand Capucin via *"Directe"* route (grade 6A) and first ascents of *"Russian Winter"* and *"Winter Voyage"* routes in the Mont Blanc massif.

Passport Category of rock climbing ascents. Alps, Mont Blanc Massif (France, Chamonix). Grand Capucin peak 3838 m, East face, "Directe" route (Bellin, Boivin, Maioli), 1983. Difficulty category 6A (ED2 according to the French classification). Height difference - 450 m, route length - 570 m, length of sections with 5-6 difficulty category - 570 m, including 6 category - 530 m, average steepness of the route - 84°. Pitons driven: rock 49+2/29+2 chocks 81/37 Team's travel time - 12 hours.

### Ascent Route to Gran Capucin Peak (3838m) via the East Face, difficulty category 5B-6A.

The summit of Grand Capucin 3838 m, East face. The route "East face original route" (Bonnati – Gigo, 1951) in combination with the North face in the upper part was ascended by the team V. Igolkin – Yu. Oleinikov on June 22, 1998. 2 — The route "Directe des Capucins" (Bellin, Bovin and Maioli, 1983) was ascended by the team S. Soldatov – M. Sibaev on June 22, 1998. CERTIFICATE Rock climbing category. Alps, Mont Blanc massif (France, Chamonix). Grand Capucin peak 3838 m, East face, route "East face original route" (Bonnati – Gigo, 1951) in combination with the North face in the upper part. Complexity category 5B–6A cat. (TD/TD+ according to the French classification). Height difference — 400 m, route length — 620 m, length of sections 5–6 cat. — 620 m, of which 6 cat. — 500 m, average steepness of the route — 84°. Driven pitons:

Ascent of Grand Capucin (3838 m) via W. Bonatti route on the West face, grade 6Б.

Ascent Passport Ascent class — rock Ascent area — Western Alps, Mont Blanc massif Grand Capucin (3838 m) — via the center of the West face Complexity category — 6B. W. Bonatti route Height difference — 450 m. of which: rock part — 350 m. Length — 720 m, incl. rock part (after traverse) — 420 m. Length of sections with 5–6 complexity category — 330 m,