Archimedes. nandari dolor. 29 Agolferf

10. Archimedes from the north-west via couloir — category III difficulty (V. Ryazanov, V. Benkin, A. Ryabukhin, V. Samokhvalov, and V. Chernov — July 8, 1961). The path from the Bezengi alpine camp to the left-bank moraine of the Maly Ukyu glacier behind the Southern counterfort of the Ukyu peak summit see in description 3. Immediately behind the Southern counterfort of the Ukyu peak, [move] right to a large scree and, in its lower part, partially snowed couloir that is snow-ice in its upper part (rope up! the couloir is prone to rockfall). 60–70 m up the rocks on the right side of the couloir, then traverse the couloir left and 60–65 m up the rocks on the left side (beware of streams!). Above the couloir's mouth, from under the slabs, move to the right side of the couloir and exit to the North-West

Archimedes Peak via the northern ice gully, Category III, Winter Climbing.

From the Ukyu-kosh hut, follow the terminal moraine trail to the KSP "dovecote" shelter - 3/4 to 1 hour. The ice gully is a hanging glacier tongue descending from the 3rd ridge plateau, bounded on both sides by rocky buttresses. Over a 200m stretch, the glacier's slope is 40-45°, with the lower 40m being nearly vertical and, in places, overhanging. From the "dovecote", cross the glacial stream and ascend the icy slope with rocks and snow debris to the glacier's terminus. When ascending the tongue, stick to the safer middle section and only shift towards the left buttress rocks when reaching the gentler upper part. From the route's start - 5-8 hours. Further ascent along the ridge to the 3rd and highest peaks, and descent - as per description 1. Hazardous sections: the entire lower part of the route is prone to rockfall from both sides. It's advisable to start the route as early as possible; avoid starting after a warm night or in low visibility. Special equipment:

• Ice screws - 8-15 pcs.
• Ice hammers (ice fifis)
• Crampons - for all participants

Peak Archimedes via Ridge 3, 2B

From the “Ukyu-kosh” hut, 100 m up the trail, then right along the talus on the slope of Ridge 3 and along an inclined wide terrace (stay on its left edge, there are good goat trails here) to its end. Bypassing the last gendarme with a traverse from Ridge 3 to SW along the ledges along a system of cairns, enter a couloir leading to the 3rd "alley," and along it up to the left about 100 m to the exit onto the ridge behind the gendarme (here is the last cairn) — 1.5–2 hours from the hut. Next comes a wide section of Ridge 3 — a glacier filling the hollow between two parallel rocky sides. Traverse the glacier to its end and here to the left onto a sharp rocky ridge. As a rope team:

• along a rocky gentle ridge for 60 m
• after a connector — up along a snowy wide ridge (if icy — along the right rocky edge) under the wall of the 3rd summit of Peak Archimedes. Under the wall:
• traverse right for 40 m along a ledge (there may be snow, ice; secure using protrusions and pitons),
• then up rocky terrain (piton) to the S. ridge,
• along it to the left under a huge stone (“egg” — it's visible from the camp) on the 3rd summit of Peak Archimedes.

Arkhimed peak via V. Greben, 3A

From the “Ukyu-kosh” hut, ascend the gorge along the trail of the Ukyu glacier’s terminal moraine, then along the glacier, bypassing the northern buttresses of the 3rd ridge on the left, to the snow-ice slope leading to Ural Pass –1.5–2 hours (From the “dovecote” –3/4–1 hour). Up the middle part of the slope (rockfall hazard on the first half of the ascent from the left from the slopes of the 1st gendarme of the 3rd ridge of p. Ural) into the cirque under the pass, and up — to the pass (fig. 1). From the bivouac 2–2.5 hours. The ascent to the pre-summit “gendarme” begins along the rock ledge to the right of the ridge for 20 m and then up 40 m into the ridge’s gap (possible snow, flow ice). From the gap, descend to a ledge on the S side, along the ledge for 10 m and then up the internal angle for 30 m with piton belay to the ridge. Along the ridge simultaneously — to the top of the “gendarme”, here is a control cairn. Descent from the “gendarme”: 1st option — from the summit to the 3rd km to the protrusion, from it on a doubled rope, 7–10 m sportively down the smooth slab into the wide rock chimney. Along the chimney and then along the rocks to the left of the ridge to the isthmus (so-called “hole”), covered from above by a huge flat stone; 2nd option — from the summit first S ~40 m, then along the SW wall ledges to the same isthmus. From the isthmus, a planned or emergency descent to the N side is possible: rappel down the inclined internal angle, then down the broken rocks, two sports pitches leading into the cirque under the pass, then along the ascent route. From the isthmus, along the broken rocks to the left of the ridge, up to the snowy shoulder of the summit, then traverse left along the ledge to the rock couloir and up it with a S exit to the E summit. From the pass 3–4 hours.