Чарские Зори

Peak2,920 m
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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Report on the first ascent of the "Dядя Саня" route, category 5A, via the North-Eastern ridge wall of the Charskiye Zori peak, 2920 m.

Report

on the first ascent to the peak Charskie Zori 2920 m via the "Dядя Саня" route on the wall of the North-Eastern ridge, approximately 5A category of difficulty, for the period from June 28, 2019 to June 28, 2019. 2019

I. Climbing Passport

1. General Information
1.1Full name, sports rank of the leaderBoyko Aleksey Andreevich, CMS
1.2Full name, sports rank of the participantsGlazunov Evgeny Vladimirovich, MS — Boyko Aleksey Andreevich, CMS
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Report on the first ascent of a route of 5A category of difficulty via the eastern wall of the southern counterfort of the Charskiye Zori peak (2920 m) in the Eastern Sayan.

Ascent Report

Peak Charskie Zori (2920 m) — Eastern wall of the Southern counterfort — Route 5A cat. diff. (proposed), first ascent — Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge, Barun-Khandagai gully, 6.1 Leader: Klepikov A.A. Participants:

  • Ilyinsky V.A.
  • Shcherban A.N.

2013

Ascent Passport

  1. Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge, Barun-Khandagai gully, 6.1
  2. Peak Charskie Zori (2920 m), via E wall of S counterfort.
  3. Proposed — 5A — first ascent.
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Description of the first ascent of the 4B category route to the summit of Charskiye Zori (2920 m) in the Eastern Sayan Mountains along the south-eastern counterfort of the western ridge.

As­cen­sion cer­ti­fi­cate

  1. East­ern Say­an, Tun­kin­skie Goltsy range, Ba­ruun-Khan­da­gai riv­er gorge. Sec­tion num­ber ac­cord­ing to clas­si­fi­ca­tion ta­ble 6.1.2 — Char­s­kie Zori, 2920 m (sum­mit co­or­di­nates: 51°55′24.54″ N 102°10′90″ E), via south-east­ern coun­ter­fort of west­ern ridge
  2. Dif­fi­cul­ty cat­e­gory: pro­posed 4B cat., first as­cen­sion
  3. Na­ture of the route — rocky.
  4. Route el­e­va­tion dif­fer­ence: 400 m Route length: 550 m. Length of sec­tions: V cat. dif­fi­cul­ty — 60 m, VI cat. dif­fi­cul­ty — 85 m. Av­er­age steep­ness: wall sec­tion of the route — 80°, en­tire route
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Description of a combined route (category 3А) to the top of [Charskiye Zori](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mount_Chersky_(Eastern_Sayan)) peak (2920 m) via the northern slope and the third ridge in the [Eastern Sayan](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eastern_Sayan).

6.1 Eastern Sayan Charskiye зори, 2920 m 3Аz from North by 3 ridge Zhigalov А.V. October 23, 2012

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class — combined
  2. Region — Eastern Sayan, Baruun-Khandagai
  3. Peak Charskiye зори, 2920 m from North by 3 ridge
  4. Supposed — first ascent
  5. Route characteristics:
  • height difference — 680 m.
  • total length 1900 m.
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Report on the first ascent of v. Charskie Zori 2920 m via the western ridge, complexity category 2Б, with a detailed description of the route and photographs.

Irkutsk Regional Public Organization "Club of Active Recreation and Alpinism" Gory Baikal

Report on the First Ascent

To the peak Charskie Zori 2920 m via the western ridge. Approximately 2B category of difficulty.

Irkutsk, 2016. Passport of the Ascent

  1. (Eastern) Sayan, Tunkin Goltsy, Barun-Khandagai river gorge. Section number according to the classification table (6.1.2).
  2. Charskie Zori 2920 m via the western ridge.
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