7.8.3

Climbing Report on Peak Karlytau (5550 m) in July 1968

Almaty Region

1968

INTRODUCTION

From July 18 to August 20, 1968, an expedition from the Kazakh Republican Council of the "Spartak" Sports Society was in the area of the North Inylchek Glacier, with the goal of traversing peaks Shater and Khan-Tengri. To reach the area of operation, it was necessary to cross the Sarydzhas Ridge from the Bayankol valley. The area around Peak Marble Wall is fairly well-known both geographically and in terms of mountaineering. In 1965, while conducting the northern traverse of the Sarydzhas Ridge, the Kazakh "Spartak" team scouted the Tengri-Tag Ridge as a potential climbing objective. It was clear that the approach from the Bayankol valley to the North Inylchek Glacier was significantly shorter than the approach via Lake Merzbacher, but the Sarydzhas Ridge presented a difficult obstacle. The saddle between peaks Karly-Tau and Kazakhstan seemed the most accessible. A reconnaissance group of 8 people led by V. Popov was sent to scout and prepare the route across the ridge. The group, departing Almaty on July 18, arrived at the "green" camp under the moraine of the Marble Wall Glacier on July 20. Further, in fulfillment of their task, the group:

• Reached the watershed of the Sarydzhas Ridge via the northwest ridge of Peak Karly-Tau;

Ascent Passport

1. Central Tian Shan, Sarydzhan range, Marble Wall glacier.
2. Traverse of peaks Karlytau (5450 m) – Marble Wall (6400 m) from Marble Wall glacier, first ascent.
3. Submitted – 5B cat. diff. (tentative).
4. Route character — combined.
5. Route height difference — 2030 m. Route length – 4316 m. Length of sections: V cat. diff. – 2500 m, VI cat. diff. – 300 m. Average steepness:
   • main part of the route (sections?) – 70°