Трапеция, Северо-Западная

Ascent to the North-Eastern peak of the Trapezia massif from the Mordi valley, category 2B difficulty, with route description and recommendations for climbers.

Ascent to the north-west peak from the Morды valley — cat. diff. 2A From the "Udzunkol" camp along the right bank of the Morды river to the old koshi, cross to the left bank and along the trail to the large moraine of the Dalar glacier. Along the moraine to its middle part, where it flattens. From here to the left-down and further up the slopes to the talus terrace under the NW edge of Trapezia. The bivouac site. From the camp 3.5-4 hours. From the bivouac: up steep talus upwards in the direction of the huge chute-couloir; to the right of it — along slabs and rocks to the place of its narrowing; crossing on snow (belay!) to the left side of the couloir; further up along the stepped rocks and shelves from island to island — ascent to a heavily destroyed rocky ridge; along it — to the "central" rocky island (belay!). From the island to the rocks straight-up (belay!) to a large smoothed rocky block on the slope under the peak. Exit to it along narrow shelves and short walls (belay! Pitons!), and further along the destroyed rocks to the ridge under the gendarme.

Description of a new route, category 5B, on the Southeast wall of Trapezia Glavnaya peak in Caucasus, first ascended by Alexander Kolchin and Denis Veiko in 2001.

Ascent Passport Caucasus, Uzunkol Valley. Section number in the 1999 classification table - 2.3 Trapezia Main via SE wall (3743 m). Proposed 5B category of difficulty. First ascent. Route character - rock. Height difference: from the assault bivouac to the summit: 580 m wall section: 350 m. Length wall section: 430 m.

Description of the first ascent of Trapezia Peak (3743 m) via the East wall in the Western Caucasus, complexity category 5B.

Ascent Passport. Region — West Caucasus, Uzunkol valley. Peak Trapezia (Main/3743 m/) via East wall Route category — 5B, first ascent Route description: height difference — 450 m average slope 60°, length of sections 5B–6B –350 m Pitons hammered on ascent: rock — 80 (10 left in place) Number of climbing hours — 14 + 4 processing 1978, July 12 — approach to the route I3; July 14 — route processing — I20;

Description of the 4A category difficulty route to the summit of Trapezia (3800 m) via the East Ridge, including the required equipment and safety precautions.

Trapeziya Peak – 3800 m Ascent to the Main summit via the wall of the Eastern ridge — category 4A. Description of the ascent route to the summit The path from the camp to the upper Trapeziya glacier plateau can be found in the description of category 2A route. Across the plateau to the foot of the Eastern ridge. At the bottom of the snowy slope, cross the bergschrund and continue ascending on snow (55°), 70–80 m, belay! To the base of a 1.5 m rusty streak running through the entire visible massif of rocks left-up-right. Up the rocks (many loose stones!) in the direction of the streak (belay! Pitons!). Along the streak up 140–150 m (pitons!) to an inclined ledge running in the same direction. Along the ledge, 130–140 m to its end (pitons!) at the level of the couloir throat — a control cairn. To the right of the ledge is a couloir — DO NOT ENTER — (stones, avalanches from the pre-summit depression!). From the end of the ledge left-up 180 m (belay! Pitons!) on rocks to a black overhanging wall under the ridge. The wall is a system of snow-ice couloirs separated by steep rocky ridges. Ascent up the rocks “Belay! Very tense climbing! Pitons!”. Behind the wall is an exit to the ridge slabs and along them to a black wet wall on the ridge “control cairn”. Bypass this wall (40 m) to the right along the boundary of rocks and a steep (more than 45°) snow patch and again exit to the snowy ridge (pitons!). Along the steep snowy ridge (80 m, belay!) ascent to the summit. From the base of the Eastern ridge to the summit is 14–16 hours. There are no bivouac sites on the entire route to the summit. Descent from the summit via category 2B route to the bivouac takes 2.5–3 hours. The number of participants in the group is not more than 4 people. Initial bivouac — lake under Trapeziya glacier. Equipment for a group of 4 people: rope — 2 × 40 m; expendable cordelette — 10 m;

A route to the summit of Jeanne d'Arc in Kyrgyzstan via the southwest wall, describing a challenging path with altitude changes and technical details.

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