Traverse of the Dinamovets - Dzhamalaktau peaks, 3A category of difficulty route (see fig. 18). The route to the Dinamovets peak is described in the section on ascending the Dinamovets peak from the southwest. From the Dinamovets peak, descend along the northern ridge, bypassing the subpeak on the left. Further, along a 250 m long snow-ice slope. In the lower part, the slope steepness is 50-55°. This section is prone to avalanches and ends with a sharp ridge with steep slope drops. Traverse this ridge. In the middle part of the ridge, there is a gendarme. Cornices are present. Ascend and descend the gendarme via the frozen rocks. Further, a rocky ridge with gendarmes is traversed; the first one is bypassed, while the second one is taken head-on via a ledge with a deviation to the right. Exit onto a snow area. Traverse a snowy ridge, bypassing a gendarme via a ledge on the right. Transition from the ledge to the slope, bypassing the outer corner, is challenging. The next gendarme is bypassed on the right. Exit onto the Tumanny pass. Overnight stay is possible here. The ascent to Dzhamalaktau begins with a small snowy couloir leading to a snowy saddle. Then, traverse a destroyed rocky ridge. Encountered gendarmes are bypassed on the left; the last one is taken head-on via an inner corner. Exit onto the summit via a couloir with snow and talus. Descend from the summit towards the Solnechny pass via destroyed rocks, then via a couloir with regelation ice, up to 100 m long. From the couloir, exit onto a ridge with a gendarme, which is taken on the left. Further:

• Descend along a snow-ice slope to easy rocks
• Traverse a snow-ice couloir
• Move along easy rocks to the Solnechny pass saddle. From the Solnechny pass, descend along snow and talus to the Solnechny glacier. Traverse the left side to the prospectors' hut, and from it, follow the trail to the camp. The entire traverse takes up to 13 hours.

Recommendations for Climbers

Тraverse of the Jамalak­tau — Di­na­mo­vets peaks, 3B cat. route. The approaches and the route to the Jамalak­tau peak are described in the section on ascents to this peak. From the Jамalak­tau peak, the descent goes down a couloir with snow and talus and leads to a destroyed ridge running in a southerly direction. At the point where the ridge turns southwest-southwest, descend from the last gendarme via an internal corner. Hook insurance required. Further along the destroyed ridge, the gendarmes are bypassed on the right. Behind the ridge is a snowy isthmus, to the left are rock formations resembling towers. Descent via a small couloir to the Tumanny Pass. Stick to the left rocks. The pass elevation is 3700 m. A convenient place to spend the night. From the peak to the pass takes 2.5–3 hours.

Джа­ма­лак­тау Fig. 19

Dzhamalaktau (3950 m)

1. Ascent from the north.
2. Traverse of the Dzhamalaktau — Dinamo­vets peaks. Ascent to the summit of Dzhamalaktau from the north, route 2B cat. difficulty (Fig. 19). The summit of Dzhamalaktau is located in the new spur of the Trans-Ili Alatau ridge in the crest, which serves as a watershed for the rivers:

• Sredniy Talgar
• Bolshoy Klyuch. From the Talgar alpine camp, the path goes along the trail, which starts on the opposite side of the river and leads to the prospectors' house near the Solnechny glacier.