165. Lekzyr Severnaya via the Eastern slope of the Southern ridge (combined route, category 2B, fig. 24, 26). At Tot pass (item 160. turn right and reach the snowy eastern slope of Lekzyr Severnaya peak. From here, 300–400 m up-left along a gentle snowy slope (avalanches, rocks), in the upper part along the rocks or to the right of them — to reach the shoulder of the snowy counterfort. Up along the counterfort, then cross left a wide snowy couloir (avalanches, rocks) of the saddle between Severnaya and Glavnaya peaks and reach a vaguely expressed ridge. From here, 80–100 m up along steep easy destroyed and snowy rocks of

Fig. 26. 164. Lekzyr Severная via North Ridge (combined route, V. Martynova, category 4A, fig. 24, 26). From the initial bivouac on the "Morena Lekzyr" sites (point 159), cross the Eastern branch of the Lekzyr Glacier and approach the right side of the Tot pass — the left side of the base of the North Ridge of Lekzyr Severная peak. From the glacier:

• overcome the bergschrund via a snow bridge;
• ascend a steep 100–300-meter ice-and-snow slope to the North Ridge of Lekzyr Severная peak.

168. Lekzyr Yuzhnaya via South-Eastern Ridge (combined route, E, Beletsky, 3B cat. diff., fig. 24, 26).

From Tot Pass (route 160) descend a snow slope with a bergschrund in its lower part to Tot Glacier and along its right side (closed crevasses) approach the right side of the south-eastern ridge of Lekzyr Yuzhnaya peak. From the glacier, having traversed the bergschrund, ascend 100–120 m up a snowy-ice slope of the "tie" to a col (cornice) of the South-Eastern ridge above the 1st pillar. Here, turn right, approach the 2nd pillar, bypass it with a descent along a ledge on the left (belay) and get behind it onto the South-Eastern ridge. Then:

• 15–20 m along a snowy slope,
• 80–90 m along rocky South-Eastern ridge to below a wall. Bypass the wall on the right along a ledge. Then, traverse 50–60 m along medium-difficulty rocks on the right side of the South-Eastern ridge (gully) and via an ice-snow couloir ascend to the South-Eastern ridge. Then:
• along medium-difficulty rocks,
• along a snowy col (cornice),
• along simple, easy rocks of the South-Eastern ridge — ascend to the summit of Lekzyr Yuzhnaya.

169. Lekzyr Severnaya — Lekzyr Yuzhnaya

(combined route, E. Emelyanova, 4A cat. diff., fig. 24, 26). From the summit of Lekzyr Glavnaya (route 165, 166) descend along simple rocky Yuzhny ridge, then along shelves on its right side to the saddle of Yuzhny ridge. From the saddle descend on the left side of the ridge by 3–4 abseils 25–30 m and sport route to a platform. From the platform traverse right along snowy shelves, then along a narrow 20–25-meter couloir (chimney) and steep broken rocks to a platform on the saddle of the massif behind Bolshoy zhendarм. Make a bivouac on the platform. From Glavnaya summit 5–6 hours. From the platform — along simple rocks of the ridge, overcoming small rock towers head-on or