Pik Skalisty

Peak5,621 m
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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Ascent to Peak Skalisty (5621 m) via the north edge from the Ats-Terek glacier, route description and key details of the hike.

Peak Skalisty — Main Summit (5621 m) via the northern ridge from the Ats-Terek glacier — 35 km.

August 13, 1969. Kazimierz Głazek, Tadeusz Piotrowski, Bernard Uchmański, Krzysztof Cieleńsky, Bogdan Jankowski From a bivouac on the Votryanaya saddle. Description of the route's character up to the saddle:

  • Within "Ascent in the Skalisty Peak massif," the path goes via easy climbing, местами по льду — по пря­мой сто­ро­не гре­бня (400 m), кру­ти­зной до 45°.
  • Then an ascent onto a complex ridge, along which another 100 m to its highest point.
  • Descent down steep snow (20 m) onto a rocky saddle.
  • The further path proceeds along a purely rocky ridge.
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Description of the ascent route to the summit from Vetrenaya col via the wall and ridge, indicating the difficulty and time for ascent and descent.

From the approach to Vetrenaya pass (for a description of the route to the pass, see the section “Ascent in the Skalisty peak massif”) - easy rock ascent to the wall. The wall is 55° steep, 50 m long, has complex rocks (10 m), in the middle of the wall it's on friction. The path goes straight up. After the wall, the path goes along the ridge for several meters, and then left up a chimney (5 m) to the shelves, along which there is an 80 m traverse. Then climb up steep sandy walls (50 m), exit to the summit. From the pass to the summit takes 2 hours. Descent via the ascent route (2 abseils), the rocks on the route are complex. From the approach to the pass to the summit takes around 6 hours.

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Report on the first ascent of the northern buttress of the Vertical peak in the Matcha mountain junction in 1973 by a team of Leningrad climbers.

Leningrad Climbing Championship 1973

Skalistaya (3rd West) peak Vertical via North Counterfort

(First ascent, approximately 5B category) Report on the ascent by the LOS DSO "Trud" team

Photo 1. Skalistaya (3rd West) peak Vertical 5130 m and the first ascent route, group's bivouacs

Map of the Skalisty settlement area and peak Vertical

Practical geographical description and sporting characteristics of the route

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First ascent description of the South-Eastern summit of peak Skalisty in Pamir-Alay via the Eastern wall of the Southern ridge, with a 6B difficulty level.

PASSPORT

1. Category — technical.

  1. Region — PAMIR-ALAY, Ak-Terek spur of the Turkestan Range.
  2. SCALISTY Peak, SOUTHEASTERN summit — 5450 m, via the eastern wall of the Southern ridge.
  3. Proposed 6B category of difficulty, FIRST ASCENT.
  4. Height difference — 1610 m, length 2275 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 1847 m. Average steepness of main sections — 84° (4100–4750 m), 72° (4750–5280 m), 74° (5150–5450 m), of which 6th category — 847 m: 86° (502 m) 4100–4750 m, 77° (265 m) 4790–5250 m, 85° (80 m) 5250–5410 m.
  5. Number of pitons driven: | | rock | placements | bolted | ice | | :------------ | :--: | :--------: | :-----: | :---: |
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First ascent via the eastern wall of the southern ridge to the southeastern summit of Pik Skalisty (5450 m) in Pamir-Alai, 6B cat. difficulty.

Passport

  1. Class — TECHNICAL.
  2. Region — PAMIR-ALAY, Ak-Terek spur of the Turkestan Range.
  3. Peak SKALISTY, SOUTHEASTERN SUMMIT — 5450 m, via the eastern wall of the Southern ridge.
  4. Proposed 6B category of difficulty, FIRST ASCENT.
  5. Height difference — 1610 m, length 2275 m. Length of sections with 5–6B category of difficulty — 1847 m. Average steepness of main sections:
  • 84° (4100–4750 m)
  • 72° (4750–5280 m)
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Description of the route of 6th cat. difficulty level to the South-East summit of Pik Skalisty (5450 m) via the eastern wall of the South ridge, climbed by the LOS DSO "Burevestnik" team in 1983.

PASSPORT

  1. Class — High-altitude technical.
  2. Region — Pamir-Alay, Ak-terek spur of the Turkestan Range.
  3. Peak Skalisty, Southeast summit 5450 m, via the eastern wall of the South ridge.
  4. 6B category of difficulty, second ascent, repetition of the gold medal route of the USSR Championship 1982.
  5. Height difference 1600 m, length — 2200 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 1722 m, of which 6 category of difficulty — 572 m. Average steepness by sections:
  • 4100–4750 m — 79°
  • 4750–5280 m — 72°
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