Шульгина

Peak
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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A combined route of 4A category of complexity to the peaks Vils, Passionariya, Moskvich, and Lagai in the Tsey area, lasting 3-4 days.

A combined route of 4A category of complexity to the peaks Vils, Passionariya, Moskvich, and Lagai in the Tsey area, lasting 3-4 days.

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Description of a combined route of 2A category of complexity to Shulgin Peak (3648 m) along the North-Eastern ridge from the Tsey Gorge.

Shulgin Peak

The low rock tower of Shulgin Peak (3648 m) is located in the Kalper Range between Vil'sa Peak in the south and (beyond the Kalper pass) the Kalper Peak in the northeast. There is only one combined route to the peak — from the Kalper pass. 214. Shulgin Peak via the Northeast ridge (combined route, category 2A, fig. 41, 42). The path from the CSP of the Tsey region (a group of 4–20 people) to the initial bivouac on the saddle of the Kalper pass is described in route 211. On the Kalper pass, turn right (when ascending from the Tsey valley) and ascend traversing along the right or left side of the Northeast ridge of Shulgin Peak. Then, via a short snowy rock

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Ascent to the summit via a couloir and then along the ridge, complexity category 2A, height difference 900 m, 8 hours of climbing time.

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ASCENT RECORD

  1. Ascent type: rock
  2. Ascent area: Caucasus, Tsey Gorge
  3. Proposed category: 2A
  4. Peak: Shulgin Peak via SE ridge, 3900 m, 3700
  5. Height difference: 900 m Average slope: couloir – 30 °, wall – 50 °
  6. Pitons driven: 3
  7. Duration: 8 hours
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