Route Description

There are separate descriptions and diagrams for all the peaks included in the traverse (see routes):

• "Chungur-Jar from Chungur Pass" (77)
• "Chungur-Jar via the eastern ridge" (78)
• "Chungur-bashi via the western ridge" (79) The description and diagram for "Chungur-Jar via the eastern ridge" (78) should be read in reverse when traversing. On the saddle to the left, there are large snow cornices! After ascending to the summit of Chungur-bashi ("Chungur-bashi via the western ridge"), the descent from it towards the saddle to the peak of Kanny-kaya proceeds mostly to the right of the ridge line: along simple broken rocks, ledges, and slabs. The descent to the saddle takes 1.5 hours. The ascent to the summit of Kanny-kaya is similar in terrain character to the descent from Chungur-bashi to the saddle: moving along broken rocks, bypassing small gendarmes to the right along ledges. If the ledges are covered with snow, the gendarmes are passed "head-on," which will increase the ascent time to the summit by one hour. In the gaps between the gendarmes, there are snow cornices at the beginning of summer! From the saddle to the summit: 2.5 hours.

PASSPORT

ASCENTS

1. Class of ascent
   • rock
2. Area of ascent
   • West Caucasus, Uzunkol region.
3. Route of ascent
   • peak CHUNGUR-LZHAR 3668 m. North edge 3B cat. diff.
4. Characteristics of ascent:
   • height difference of the route — 700 m.

Chungur-Dvar Peak

Ascent from the col from Chungur-Bashi along the eastern ridge, category 2A difficulty. From the col from Chungur-Bashi peak, move left onto the ridge and ascend the rocks to a large ledge. Traverse the ledge for 20 m (belay!) and then ascend left and upwards for 10 m; follow the wall with an inner corner (pitons!) to the next ledge. From here, use a 15-meter inner corner (belay! piton!) to reach the shoulder of the ridge's rocky ascent. Along the ridge to a 5-meter slab and traverse right (belay!) to ascend to the main ridge. Follow the ridge to where it becomes less steep and then along a narrow crest to reach the summit. From the col to the summit takes 2.5–3 hours. Descent from the summit follows the category 1B route to Chungur Pass. The further descent route coincides with the ascent route.

Recommendations for Climbers:

I. Number of participants in the group - 2 training units II. Initial bivouac: upper Kichkinekolye, without overnight stay. When ascending Chungur-Bashi, bivouac at Kichkinokol Pass. III. Departure time from bivouac - not later than 4–5 am.

Route Description:

The ascent to Chugur Pass (following the "Kichkinekol from Chugur Pass" route) is to the right of the "Parus" rock. From Kichkinekol Pass, it takes 2 hours. From the pass, follow the right side of the 500-meter ridge, initially a broken rocky ridge (watch out for cornices on the left!), then a snowy ridge to reach the summit. From Chugur Pass, it takes 2.5 hours. The descent from the summit follows the ascent route to Chugur Pass and takes 1.5 hours.

• When ascending from the northern side, from Chugur valley, set up the initial bivouac under the Chugur glacier on the right lateral moraine, on the shore of a dried-up lake. From here, the ascent to Chugur Pass goes along the right side of the snowy slopes of the glacier, then up a steep (up to 40°) 80-meter snowy slope.

2.3.123 119

Chugur-Bashi Peak

Ascent from the saddle between Chugur-Jar peak and Chugur-Bashi peak along the western ridge, category 2B. From "Uzunkol" alpine camp along the left bank of the Kichkinekol river to the stream flowing from the Sr. Kichkinekol glacier. Along the stream (trail) ascend to a side green terrace and further exit to the upper part of old "ram's foreheads" and along the left gray moraine (trail) – exit to the Sr. Kichkinekol glacier plateau. From the alpine camp to the plateau — 3–3.5 hours. Across the plateau towards the slopes of Kichkinekol pass and up to the bergschrund, keeping closer to the slopes of Filtr peak. Cross the bergschrund via a bridge (belay!) and ascend 120 m along the snowy slope up to 40°. Ascend to a snow step and through it exit to Kichkinekol pass. From the plateau to the pass — 1.5–2 hours. From the pass descend to the Zamok glacier plateau and left, circumventing along the foot of Kichkinekol peak and Chugur-Jar peak and, not reaching the icefall, exit to the slopes of Chugur-Jar and along them – to the saddle towards Chugur-Bashi. From Kichkinekol pass — 1.5–2 hours.

2.3.60 58 Traversing the peaks: KANNY-KAYA — CHUNUR-BASHI — CHUNUR-DZHAR from "Instruktorkiy" pass — Cat. 3A in both directions. From "Uzbekol" alpine camp along the trail of Kichkinekol gorge to the stream flowing from the Sredniy Kichkinekol glacier and along the trail along the stream to a green terrace. "Green campsite". From here, up the trail to the sheep's foreheads and along the ridge of the gray moraine to the Sredniy Kichkinekol glacier plateau. From the campsite — 3 hours. Through the plateau to the slopes of Kichkinekol pass. Ascend the snowy slope to the bergschrund — closer to the rocks of the Filtr peak. Crossing via a bridge — belay! And further along the snowy slope for 150 m up to 45° — belay! — exit to the pass. From the plateau to the pass — 2 hours. Descent from the pass straight down to the Zamok glacier plateau. Immediately to the left under the slopes of Kichkinekol peak along the snowy slopes and terraces approach the Chungur pass. Exit to the pass along the snowy and scree slopes, guided by the "Parus" rock. From Kichkinekol pass to Chungur — 1–1.5 hours.