Climbing route description to Gerta-bashi peak (4200 m) from Ullu-Auz glacier — Category 1B From the overnight stay on the moraine, ascend via grassy slopes and scree, then left to bypass the ridge descending from the Dumala-Tau massif, and following the Dumala-Tau slopes along the glacier and snowfields — ascent to the middle plateau of the Ullu-Auz glacier. Then, via snowy slopes upwards, in the direction of the central rocky outcrop under Mira peak (above the outcrop are icefalls) to a snowy ledge-slope above the icefalls. Along the snowy ledge-slope above the icefalls 400–500 m leftwards upwards under Mira peak slopes (prone to avalanches and icefall) to ascend to Trud pass plateau. From the overnight stay — 5–6 hours. From the pass, leftwards via snowfields, slopes, and simple rocks to reach Gerta-bashi peak. Descent via the ascent route takes 2–3 hours.

Route Description — Ascending Gerta-Bashi Peak via the Northwest Ridge — Category III difficulty.

From the overnight stay behind the moraine, ascend via grassy slopes and scree, bypassing the icefall of the Ullu-Auz glacier, to the middle snow plateau of the glacier, and along it to the left, under the right part of the Northwest ridge of Gerta-Bashi peak. From the glacier, ascend up a snowy slope and heavily broken simple rocks to the right of a small snowy couloir; after 40–50 m, move left, then 25–30 m through a rocky couloir to a ridge. Follow the ridge's moderately difficult rocks 90–120 m upwards (loose rocks!), then 60–70 m up steep slabs to beneath a vertical wall. Bypass the wall on the right via an 8–10-meter ledge. From the ledge:

• ascend 45–50 m up heavily broken rocks;
• then 25–30 m along an inclined slab under a large boulder on the ridge. From the boulder:
• ascend rightwards up a small snowy slope 30–35 m via slabs;
• then 35–40 m up a steep couloir (loose rocks) to ascend to the ridge's saddle between sharp gendarmes. From the saddle, move right. Bypass the sharp gendarme along the snowy plateau on the left; then follow a wide, simple horizontal ridge to reach a gap (cairn!).

103. Traverse of the Koshtan-Krest ridge from the peak of Kankashev to Gerty-Bashi with ascent to the peak Kankashev via the Eastern ridge — 5A cat. diff. (A. Naumov, E. Varfolomeev, I. Kudinov, E. Sokolovsky, V. Shutin, V. Shutov — July 16–21, 1961; fig. 34, 35). The path from the alp camp "Bezengi" to the Eastern summit of peak Kankashev see in description 102. From the Eastern summit:

• descend 60 m down simple monolithic rocks to the snowy ridge in the failure. From the failure:
• ascend simple destroyed rocks of the ridge to the Western summit of peak Kankashev. From the Western summit:
• descend to the west first over simple rocks,
• then by sports descents over slabs and steep rocks of medium difficulty to a simple snowy ridge. Further:

7. Traversing the Kostan-krest ridge from Pik Mira to Tютюнбаши with an ascent to Pik Mira via the Northern counterfort - 4B category of difficulty (A. Naumov, E. Varfolomeev, I. Kudinov, E. Sokolovsky, V. Shutin, and V. Shutov - July 22-24, 1961; Fig. 36). The path from the "Bezengi" alpine camp to Pik Mira is described in route 106. From Pik Mira, descend west along a 150-180-meter sharp snowy ridge (cornices!) and 80-meter steep rocks (sporting descent) to the saddle between Pik Mira and Truda. From the saddle, traverse 200-250 meters along a heavily jagged rocky-snowy ridge (cornices!) with 3-5-meter rocky and small snowy gendarmes, which are overcome along the ridge. After a 7-10-meter drop, ascend along a sharp snowy ridge, then along a slope that transitions into a 60-80-meter sharp snowy ridge with small rocky outcrops over 150-200 meters. Continue along rocks of medium difficulty and a snowy ridge to ascend to Pik Truda. From Pik Truda:

• descend 25-30 meters along rocks of medium difficulty,
• then ascend to a small gendarme,
• from it, make a 40-meter sporting descent to a saddle. Further:
• traverse along rocks of medium difficulty with many small gendarmes, which are bypassed along shelves or overcome directly along 2-5-meter walls and 35-meter slabs (hook!) - descend into a drop. In the drop - a bivouac. From the Truda pass - 10-12 hours. From the drop: