Description of the route to Tsalichnil peak via the Southwest ridge, category 3A. The height of the peak is 3992 m.

From the Baksan valley through the Donguz-Orun pass, we enter the Nakra valley. Along the trail, running along the left (orographic) bank of the Nakra River, we reach the confluence of the Kvish and Nakra rivers. We cross the bridge over the Kvish River and start ascending along the left (orographic) bank of the Kvish to the left lateral moraine. In the upper part of the moraine, there are areas for overnight stays. The journey from Terskol to these areas takes about 10 hours. From the moraine, keeping to the right side (in the direction of travel), under the slopes of Leyrag peak, we make our way to the plateau below the Kvish pass. The ascent to the Kvish pass can be challenging,

325. Tsal­g­myl via North­west ridge (combined route, V. Sigalov, cat.4A, fig. 32, 43). From Nak­ra vil­lage cross Nak­ra river and as­cend the valley along the trail on the right bank. Before the third stream com­ing down from the west­ern slopes of Tsal­g­myl turn right and con­tinue through the for­est, then along the grassy slope of the North­west ridge of Tsal­g­myl. Leave the ridge on the left onto the right-lateral mo­raine of Tsal­g­myl glacier and con­tinue up­wards. From the end of the mo­raine reach the glacier. Traverse the glacier to the left avoid­ing hang­ing seracs, then turn right and as­cend a steep glacier to the up­per plateau above the seracs. From the plateau as­cend snowy slopes to reach the plat­forms on the North­west ridge of Tsal­g­myl. Start­ing bi­vak. From Nak­ra vil­lage 6–7 hrs. From the plat­forms as­cend along the icy-snowy North­west ridge (cornices) to the black rocks. Pass the rocks in a corner or traverse them on the left. Fur­ther as­cend along the sharp North­west ridge, a slab, mod­er­ately dif­fi­cult heav­ily dam­aged rocks with snowy con­nec­tions (cornices) to a plat­form un­der the North­ern gendarme. Traverse the gendarme on the left and reach the wall of the rocky belt of the summit. As­cend dif­fi­cult icy rocks of the couloir wall at 4050 m, then a steep slab of mod­er­ate dif­fi­culty lead­ing out of the couloir on the left, then 40 m along the monolithic dif­fi­cult rocks of the wall (crux).

From the Baksan valley, through the Donguz-Orun pass, we enter the Nakra valley. Along the trail, which follows the left (orographically) bank of the Nakra River, we reach the confluence of the Kvish and Nakra rivers. We cross a small bridge over the Kvish River and begin ascending along the left (orographically) bank of the Kvish River to the left lateral moraine. There are areas for overnight stays in the upper part of the moraine. The journey from Terskol to these areas takes around 10 hours. From the moraine, staying on the right side (as we move forward), under the slopes of v. Leyrag, we pass onto the plateau under the Kvish pass. The ascent to the Kvish pass can be challenging, depending on the season. In August, there is steep, razored ice. The ascent to the Kvish pass is to the left of the icefall, sticking to the rocks. A rock ascent is possible. The rocks are of medium

From the Baksan valley through the Donguz-Orun pass we get into the Nakra valley. Along the trail, going along the left (orographically) bank of the Nakra river, we reach the confluence of the Kvish river and the Nakra river. We cross a small bridge over the Kvish river and start the ascent along the left (orographically) bank of the Kvish river to the left lateral moraine. There are sites for overnight stays in the upper part of the moraine. The journey from Terokol to these sites takes about 10 hours. From the moraine, keeping to the right side (in the direction of travel) under the slopes of p. Leyrag, we make our way to the plateau under the Kvish pass. The ascent to the Kvish pass can be challenging, depending on the time of year. In August, there is steep broken ice. The ascent to the Kvish pass is to the left of the icefall, keeping to the rocks. It is possible to ascend via the rocks, which are of medium difficulty, with piton belays. To the northeast of the Kvish pass is p. Ledesh, and directly to the south is p. Leyrag.