Fig. 23 97. Skatikom (4450 m) via the East Ridge (combined route, category 2B difficulty, Fig. 22, 23). The path from the Tsey region's KSP or from the Dzinaga settlement (group of 4-12 people) to the initial bivouac on the platforms of the West Ridge of the Bivouachnaya peak is described in route 83. From the bivouac, via the East branch of the Karaugom plateau (closed crevasses), approach the glacial-snow slope of the wide couloir descending from the saddle of the Skatikom's East Ridge. Ascent:

• From the plateau, cross the bergschrund and ascend the left side of the gentle glacial-snow slope towards the saddle.
• Before reaching the saddle, turn left and move up the glacial-snow couloir.
• Then, via simple rocks, reach the East Ridge's connecting ridge, left and above the large East pinnacle.
• On the connecting ridge, turn left and follow the glacial-snow East Ridge (cornices), bypassing small pinnacles on the left, to approach the rocky ascent.

Skatikom

Skatikom (4450 m) is located in the Saudorosky ridge between Vologata to the west and the small first gendarme of the North-Eastern ridge of the Songuti peak in the Tseysky ridge to the east. The Eastern and Western ridges of Skatikom enclose the Karaugom plateau from the north. Skatikom's northern slopes:

• are heavily snowy
• steep From the Karaugom plateau side:
• more gentle
• destroyed

95. Skatikom (4450 m) via the Western ridge, Category 3B difficulty (A. Kharlampiev and 4

Fig. 23 96. Skatikom (4450 m) via North-East Wall (combined route by G. Bukharov, 5A cat. diff., Fig. 23). From the base camp on the right bank of the Songuti River, near the tongue of the same-name glacier (group of 4–6 people), ascend to the glacier, cross it to the right and exit to the right-bank moraine. Follow the moraine to the "ram's foreheads" and bypass three seracs on the right:

• First serac
• Second serac
• Third serac Beyond the third serac, exit the rocks to the left onto the glacier and ascend to the upper snow plateau of the Western branch of the glacier along its right side. Follow the plateau to the foot of the North-East wall of Skatikom peak. The initial bivouac is on the plateau under the wall. 6–8 hours from the base camp. From the plateau, ascend a steep ice-and-snow 60-meter slope with a bergschrund in the middle part to a rock shelf on the left side of the black wall at the base of the North-East wall of Skatikom peak. From the shelf:

Russian Mountaineering Federation Russian Mountaineering Federation Protocol No. 382 dated April 5, 1974 Classify as Category 5A difficulty First Ascent 2.7.104 115 SKATIKOM

107. Skatikom via the Southwest Ridge

(combined route, 5A category of difficulty)