Report №104

Report

on the ascent to the summit of Tashtambektor-bashi (4710 m) via the right buttress of the North-East wall. Team composition:

• Team leader: IVANCHIN I.A. — Candidate Master of Sports
• Participants: RYABOV N.A. — 1st sports category, MAKHNOVICH L.A. — Candidate Master of Sports, STRIKICA N.I. — Candidate Master of Sports
• Coach: PENCHUK V.L. — Master of Sports of the USSR — 1977 —

Geographical description and sporting characteristics of the Tashtambektor gorge area

The object of the gathering of the Moscow Regional Council of the "Zenit" Sports Society in 1977 was the Terskey-Alatau ridge (Eastern Tien Shan). The Terskey-Alatau ridge is latitudinal and located south of Lake Issyk-Kul, within the territory of the Kirghiz SSR.

AREA — Tashtambektor gorge, Terskey-Alatau ridge. PEAK, ITS HEIGHT, ROUTE — Tashtambektor-bashi peak, 4710 m, via the right counter-ridge of the NE wall. ESTIMATED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY — approximately 5B category of difficulty. CHARACTERISTICS — height difference — 1400 m, average steepness — 55° (counter-ridge). PROTECTION PITONS DRIVEN IN: rock — 103, ice — 46, belay pitons on ascent — 1 screw, rock — 14, ice — 8. Total of 172 pitons driven in. DEPARTURE AND RETURN DATES: Departure from base camp — August 20, 1977. Return to base camp — August 28, 1977. Number of man-hours: 66 hours, of which 52 hours were spent on the ascent to the summit. NUMBER OF NIGHTS SPENT, THEIR CHARACTERISTICS: 7 nights, of which 2 were spent sitting. The remaining nights were comfortable (after constructing them over 1–2 hours).

Climbing Passport

1. CLIMBING TYPE: technical.
2. CLIMBING AREA: Terskey-Alatau in the upper reaches of the Turgen-Aksu river.
3. PEAK, ITS HEIGHT, CLIMBING ROUTE: Tashtambektor, 4710 m, via the NW buttress of the 103 ridge.
4. PROPOSED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY: 5B.
5. ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS: height difference — 1090 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty grade — 610 m, average steepness of the route 60° (excluding the horizontal ridge section).
6. Number of pitons used: | | for belay | for artificial footholds | for organized bivouacs | | :------------: | :---------: | :----------------------: | :---------------------: | | rock | - | 74 | 12 |

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class. Technical 2. Ascent area, ridge. Tian Shan, Terskey Alatau 3. Summit, its height, route. Peak Tashtanbek 4710 m, via the northwest wall. 4. Proposed difficulty category. 6B 5. Route characteristics: height difference 1070 m, length of sections Rн — R1 cat. sl. 1040 m, average steepness 76° 6. Pitons driven: for belaying, for creating artificial holds. rock — 157, 30

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Traverse Description

Peak Tashtambektor — Onduuchoku — Sherkhan South — Sherkhan Central — Sherkhan North with ascent to Peak Tashtambektor via the North wall, accomplished by the MOS DSO "ZENIT" team July 27, 1977 – July 31, 1977 (approximately 5B category of complexity)www.alpfederation.ru Photo 1. Profile-detailed wall of Peak Tashtambektor